Must de Cartier Cartier for women

Coming back soon!
Cartier will relaunch this beauty!!

I just got a vintage bottle of this perfume, it was a blind buy. My first impression was of shock...darn I wasted my money, it smells like diesel fuel. But after a few minutes the fuel gets burned and it morphs into something delicious and warm and sophisticated. It smells like an aged smokey liquor of dried fruits and honey, I can't percieve a specific ingredient, maybe vanilla in the dried down part. I can't compare it to any of the other perfumes I have either...it seems quite unique to me, other than it fits with other great spicy orientals of the 80s and earlier fragances.

One of the classiest, most elegant scents. My friends mom wore this growing up and she always carried herself with such elegance and smelled classy. I had to know what she was wearing and it was this. I bought a mini and thought I had made a mistake...until I let it dry down, and I mean, really dry down. Don't be too scared at first spray. I would avoid sniffing this for at least 5 minutes because it smells completely different at first and once it dries is when the magic happens. So, if you spray this in a store, give it a chance and wait a bit because you'll be rewarded with a very smooth, sensual, elegant, feminine scent that has passed the test of time. It's musky, amber, woody, and slightly sweet.

I was once at a party where one woman was smelling so good and I couldn't resist myself from asking what she is wearing, She told me she is wearing Must De Dua by the Dua brand. Ever since, then it's my one of my favorites, oh and just so you know, i haven't smelled the original fragrance and I'm very much okay with it because Dua one has become my favorite and now there's no going back. It's elegant, powerful and sharp!

I was lucky enough to find my way to Must in 1990…God! I wish I had known they'd reformulate it, but I was too young to know the most precious things will be destroyed far too soon.
I remember in the morning I had to be very careful to apply a small dab and share it between both wrists, eventually brushing them on my blouse. Not more than that, and the scent would still be there at nigh, after having evolved in so many unexpected ways.
In my opinion Must cannot be discussed unless you have the opportunity to get the EdP issued before 1992, when MustII seemed to substitute it (for a rather long time Must was no longer available in the shops, making it likely Must Ii had taken its place). If you do, you'll know this is THE fragrance

Can't stop drooling over this amazing fragrance. Love it's formulation, projection and longevity, it's like an exclusive scent made for all kinds of occasion. For me, it's an all-rounder and a killer one. It can make heads turn and impress boys! It's little sharp for me though but other than that it's a clear winner! I hope, I am able to cater the issue of sharpness with this fragrance or will look for an impression of this scent.

Sweet , thick , musky , leather , vanilla ! It’s a big YES for me ! ❤️❤️❤️

It smells like a woman at a party who has just come back from a cigarette break with a stick of mint chewing gum in her mouth.

I first encountered Must de Cartier some time ago whilst perusing the Neiman-Marcus perfume counters and mustering the courage to visit the ladies' fragrances counter. I was finally willing to take a dip in the "lady pond" and the rest was history. I was struck by the vivid orange color of the juice and the decidedly not-so-current design of the bottle (come to find out this was the 2000s formulation and the fragrance had already been around for over twenty years). I remember one of my first thoughts was, "gee, if I like this and purchase it, obviously NOT here at Neiman-Marcus, the bottle looks like that of a masculine." This was clearly a number of years ago. I sniffed it and was immediately floored.

This sharp green like the crack of the whip, layered over a vanilla and some fruit, whoa, I immediately fell in love. Thus started my love affair with the galbanum/vanilla contrast, which we would find in the original Calvin Klein Obsession, the Original Moschino, Krazy Krizia, among others (I have the and love the latter two, Obsession seems redundant at this point). I love the sweet fruit syrup rendered somewhat bitter and astringent through the galbanum. It reminds me a bit of biting into a not so ripe peach and chewing on citrus rinds. This settles into musty, dusty, dry florals with the vanillic amber and leathery undertones fading into the mix. The dry down is billowy, sensual, nuzzle-musky, with traces of green evident. I will always remember this (along with Hermes Caleche and Van Cleef & Arpels First) on that fateful day, as my jettisoning any care as to how fragrance is gendered, and I now think of how much beauty I would have missed if I constrained myself to male-marketed scents.

This is a perfect leather/vanilla.

Very short:

Opens up a bit green, with sharp galbanum.
Soon, it´s all leather and vanilla.
And yes, some woods in the base.

I own both the EdT and pure parfum. Both are stellar.
Marketed towards women, i´m a man.
I think this is spectacular.

From 1981! Of course!

Perry Woman by Perry Ellis has some comforting green notes that are softly blended into a warm spice base & remind me of my Must de Cartier 1 oz sample that I had. I don't recall if it was EDP or EDT. But I do remember having instant recognition that Perry Woman reminded me of Must de Cartier. Perry Woman sells for under $15 dollars as well. Probably not as full bodied, etc. but very, very nice for what it is. I never had Calvin Klein Obsession, so I cannot reference that one.

Sexy. Expensive. High class. Unafraid. She knows what she wants and she gets it!

Woody, powdery elegance. This perfume must (haha) be worn by the right person or it will wear you.

First whiffs of this perfume are great, musty, with dominant sandalwood, Brazilian rosewood also a little sweetness of tonka beans. With that being said, drydown is very different and this notes become negligible, the scent turns into spicey babypowder, which I'm not really a fan of. Worth testing if you like rather mature scents.

legendary, incredible-ness...a very serious scent, and unapologetically dated. But downright, delicious. A favorite of mine, that I'll never be without. Musky, powdery creaminess on the bottom...fruity green-ness, on the top. A perfume fit for a king or queen. fyi?..If you have a bottle of V Canto/Cicuta laying aorund...layer it with this fragrance. Trust me, you wont regret it.

Must de Cartier is a curious one. I have a vintage miniature EDT in the red rectangular bottle with a gold-framed "window". It is a bombastic 1980s oriental, more sweet than spicy - one of those scents that almost acts as a precursor to modern gourmands. The fruit of the opening smells almost overripe, and there is a chocolate-like quality to the drydown. Although I like and appreciate skanky vintage ambers, I'm not too keen on Must. Heavy, syrupy and kitchen-sink-y, it is unpleasant at times. However, it paved the way for the likes of Dior Dune (a scent I vastly prefer), so it is an important part of perfume history.

Must opens with ripe, syrupy fruity notes, strong from the beginning. Peach and pineapple lead the way, followed by candied citrus, making for a sticky-sweet opening (fresh, juicy citrus might have injected some much-needed freshness, but I digress.) Woody notes are evident from the get-go, weighing it down a little. A haze of green galbanum - a note I usually love - feels out of place, while some half-hearted aldehydes add a slight soapiness when the fruits subside.

As it develops, the aldehydic floral heart emerges, and is perhaps the best phase of this scent. Still, instead of providing airy radiance, the aldehydic part falls a little flat. A yellow-floral accord leads the way, and is nicely polleny, joined by some indolic jasmine after a while. A hint of clove adds spice, while orris root and some rose add a powdery edge as it progresses.

There is a vanillic sweetness hovering behind the florals, taking over from the syrupy fruits of the opening in the sweetness stakes. It grows more prominent, resembling cheap chocolate alongside the amber base notes. It becomes more animalic as it fades, but heavy sweetness remains. Sillage is strong and longevity is day-long - one dab of my vintage EDT lasted for over nine hours.

Luca Turin's review comparing this to the exotically-flavoured chocolates that populate boxes of chocolates is completely on point. Too much going on here and too cloyingly sweet (in an unexpected, vintage-style manner.) Not a Must for me. 1.5/5.

Intoxicating. When I spray it on my wrists it swirls around my head cartoon style. Incredibly cosmetic to me. Endlessly feminine. It reminds me of vintage powder puffs. Expired Lipstick. Thick lotion. I feel like a child hiding under the table at a candle-lit dinner party. It's like what you imagine the word "perfume" to smell like. A monolith. And the bottle is absolute glamour... perfection is a lovely lost memory.

I was bought this by a friend from salsa class, back in about 2003. It was a blind buy, as she was trying to cheer me up after I'd split up with my boyfriend.
Never have I tried such a schizoid perfume. The opening notes slightly take my breath away, as I have asthma, and smell awful on me, but after half an hour, it improves. After about 90 minutes, I'm sniffing my own arm in delight.

I would never wear this to work, as I teach in a small classroom, and need to put it on an hour before I go out, but I love it for a special occasion. My signature scent is Divine, by Divine.fr, but I don't wear perfume to work at all.

Love, love, love this and it has been my signature scent since it was released.

Must De Cartier is a beautiful green vanilla, its by no means outdated to my nose either as it is still feels as contemporary and luxe now as it would have done in the 80s when it was released, granted, I cannot speak for reformulations as my bottle was made in May 2021, but still.

The opening is a blast of green citruses and fizzy aldehydes, usually on me aldehydes skew soapy but in Must, they have an effervescent brightness which feels airy and bracing before settling down into a warm, slightly fruity floral laying on top of a bed of vanilla, slowly over the course of 2 hours this begins to subside which reveals a bitter green nuance from the galbanum. This green nuance reminds me a little bit of Chanel No 19 EdT but without the butteriness from the iris and earthy tones from the oakmoss, vanilla and rosewood are still prominent players at this stage on my skin. Must is both cold but still warm and enveloping at the same time, another 3 hours in and the green snap fades and I'm left with a soft ambery vanilla laced with rosewood and sandalwood which wears close to the skin on me and has an effortless air of elegance and sexiness at the same time.

I actually think Must would work year round, but is better suited for day and evening wear during fall, winter and spring but for night wear during the warmer months and maybe with a lighter application purely because of how balmy and warm it dries down, but unlike other ambree/orientals I have worn, Must De Cartier never develops a bitter chemical twang on me even after wearing it all day like I have had before in the past with Obsession (of which I can see the similarities, but Must is more full, well rounded and easier to wear).
Longevity so far has been excellent, we're at the 5hr mark and still going strong with a wafty skin scent silage.
I hope this never gets discontinued, I will always have a bottle of Must in my collection from now on, pure pleasure in a bottle.
Fun useless fact; it is referenced in an episode of Charmed that Prue Halliwell wears Must De Cartier

Must de Cartier opens up green and brisk and dries down to a musky vanilla. I love that sharp galbanum, even though it fades out pretty quickly. The florals are there, but I can't really single any out...this gets very powdery. The vanilla is creamy and warm, but not too sweet. This one has become my current addiction. Very uptown, but still approachable. I also find this low-key sexy. This is a true modern classic, suitable for any time, any place...a must-have for me.

I just pulled this out of my collection since I was making samples of 80's perfumes for my sister. Of course I had to sample it since I had not worn it in over a decade. DANG! this is good! It definitely has the 80's DNA of having a full spectrum of notes from deep dark rich earthy notes, to soaring light ones. Galbanum is very present from the outset but settles down after about a half hour and then you have the melange of all the notes which create this big ball gown of a perfume. The base seems to have a little nod to older fragrances styles such as Shalimar, a good creamy chypre. Must doesn't seem to have any indolic notes that I can detect which many late 70's, and 80's perfumes have (think First by Van Cleef and Arpels). I will definitely be pulling this out to wear again. It should not have been neglected for so long.

This is a masterpiece. I just ordered a vintage. I still have a small vintage and was worried that I wouldn't find the same one (i.e., lot number, strength, year, etc....) HOWEVER, I found the exact same LOT NO. in a vintage and snagged it right away! How often does THAT happen? Rarely... I will receive my vintage bottle right before Thanksgiving and will wear this proudly as we welcome a house full of family to join us in a celebration of gratefulness and togetherness.

Stay well everyone and embrace the Thanksgiving season...

UPDATE: The vintage bottle I received is absolutely perfect!!! The masterpiece title lives on.
Happy holidays everyone!

The Past has a Light and a Dark side, very clearly felt here ... I appreciate the beauty of this perfume from the '80s not only in its light side, but also in the depth of the Dark Mystery that everyone Must tame in themselves!

Lovely! Very in-your-face leather accord, lightly softened with amber, vanilla, and tonka. Galbanum & rosewood keeps the scent dynamic throughout the day. I can see the Obsession comparison, but this is much more powdery & woody, Obsession is all about that intensely animalic amber.
This entire creation screams 80s, bold and charismatic, but very classic too. Huge sillage, very long-lasting, 8+ hours for sure. Definite must for autumn and winter.

man, this stuff is incredible...perfectly unisex. The only reason I didnt buy this yrs ago, was due to how similar it is to Obsession (which Ive kept in my collection, for years). Where Obsession is a moss/civet bomb...this is the "greener Obsession", which accentuates, galbanum and amber, in my opinion. And as I get older, I prefer these green-light-to heavy/floral-ish, musk frags that rock a dated vibe. I got the vintage red capped bottle today, and it has stood the test of time. I keep waiting for it to fade away from my wrist..but it wont. And it was nearly 8hrs ago, that I opened it and gave it a whirl (and I dont typically spray fragrances on my wrists, unless I know they're heavy from the jump). Cartier may not be a niche house, but the refinement of most of their inventory, can't be denied. There is such thing as "Cartier refinement", with their perfumes. And MdC, is one of them.

Like many here have mentioned, this beautiful perfume is quite similar to Calvin Klein's well known 80's bomb Obsession. But even if they are sewn from the same pattern, Must is fashioned of silk velvet, while Obsession is made of ordinary polyester knit. Seek out the vintage parfum version, if you can.

There will never be a perfume like Must De Cartier again.
I was in my early teens, in Europe when Must started making its presence known in our small town. It was treated like pure gold. If you had this, everyone wanted to be your friend. If your mom had it, and your friends came over, the bottle was bound to be stolen and then sold as multiple decants all over the town. I think I was 13 when I first landed a small decant in a green splash bottle, and I knew then that if I ever had money, I will amass an enormous perfume collection (and I have). Between my husband and myself, lies close to 530 different fragrances. Still, Must is the one that beats all of them combined. I don't know if it's the memories of this amazing perfume from way back when, or going out and being careless, or maybe just the fact that this is the most unique and special perfume out there, but we always come back to it. I think we have 6 different versions currently. I am wearing the Pure Perfume version as I am typing, and I am in heaven. I just have no words to describe it. As I said, nothing comes close to Must, and nothing ever will. The version I like the most is the red cap version in a silver box - that formulation is really, really good. The black box version is closest to what I remember Must smelled back then, but I find that longevity is much shorter than of the ones in silver and red boxes. Must de Cartier simply exudes class.

عطر استخدمته قديماً أراه يصلح ان يستخدمه الرجال بسبب وجود الكثير من نوتات الحمضيات

I (sort of) blind bought a bottle from Mercari, for more than I should have, and also thinking I was getting the 2015 version (it was what was pictured) but found out through check fresh that my bottle is from 2012. I had previously smelled the 2015 at Neiman Marcus, but wasn’t familiar with this one. It is nice, and exactly as described by everyone below. I just wanted to add that as it dried down on my skin today it felt very familiar. And then it hit me: this smells identical to Neutrogena Sesame Body oil. Like, if there were a perfume to accompany that oil, this would be it. I have always loved that smell, and because it’s a shower gel I get “clean” vibes from this... but only mostly because of scent memory. This is classy, unisex, and unique. I still wish I’d paid closer attention to what I was ordering, though. Mercari customer service was not helpful.

Devin Pour Femme

My bottle is from 1999. It has been stored carefully like all my perfumes and I can vouch the surviving contents are still as good as the day it was given. I'm not sure why I haven't worn it more often. A warm, soft, powdery floral, with prominent musky and animalistic notes. The civet is present for hours, imbuing the wearer with sexiness that at moments borders ruttishness. A little leather, hidden sweet notes, the slow unmasking of smokey elements: this momentous and sublime scent has a host of facets. Ten hours and beyond it ends with powdery sweet tonka.

I loved the Must 2 fractionally more, I think because (and this is a very personal judgement) I found it a little more versatile. None the less, Must is the very definition of Cartier. It is an especially good evening scent. It takes you straight to the top table when the occasion demands the wearing of a special perfume. Perfect for the wedding of a son or daughter, where you've a determination not to smell like one of the twenty-something year old bridesmaids in their Marc Jacobs, Mugler, Anna Sui, Juliet Has A Gun and the like.

In summary, Must is one for ladies into their forties and beyond. Younger women should try it, like they should Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs, Guerlain's Mitsouko and Gres' Cabochard. Scents like Must find you eventually.

Very Catherine Deneuve, Claudia Cardinale and Capucine – all of them the embodiment of timeless beauty.

So Cartier 💙🇫🇷❤️

Wow, before I started typing my review I accidentally scrolled a bit down, and saw the excellent and sensible review by jae, and I feel I couldn't add to that. Yes, it is a smooth, elegant beauty, refined, and, to my nose, perfectly balanced. These kinds of fragrances are among my favourites, and it's amazing how close it is to Obsession for example, yet very different in its smoothness. An absolute gem.

I dug out my bottle I bought 4 years ago, and tried it again. This is like Obsession light. Obsession's my siggy. This one's just, I don't know, too weak. Maybe it's the new formula, maybe I need to hunt down a vintage of this on eBay. I've had this on for 20 minutes, and it's fading already. I guess when you have vintage Opium, it's hard to match longevity of other perfumes. Must is a like for me, but not a love.

I recently purchased a small bottle off eBay and was excited about the Opium comparisons as I used to love Opium, and find myself attracted to Oriental fragrances again after a long bout in white floral frags only. I don't know if the perfume turned or if it's my pH, but initially the fragrance was spicy, and aromatic with hits of green and oakmoss. Now it smells like Givenchy's Organza original. Not complaining but it's not the scent I was looking for. It's a beautiful scent, definitely a keeper.

I am pleasantly surprised. I thought this would be another 80s loud look at me throw away. This is class with a hint of powder. Could easily be a signature scent.

How in the world did I live so long without this beauty in my life? Two of my fragrant correspondents on here recommended this to me (thank you so much, nhledger and Anamandy!!) and I am eternally grateful!

How to characterize Must de Cartier? As other reviewers have noted, the links to Opium and Obsession are clear, but I find Must more versatile and even slightly more complex. I suppose I'd call it a powdery-green chypric oriental, the amber, spice, and civet of its fragrant cousins attenuated and illuminated with a considerable dose of bright green galbanum, plenty of powdery sandalwood and tonka, and a lovely floral-creamy blend of vanilla, orris, and ylang. If possible, imagine the cherubic, ethereal lovechild of Dune and Vol de Nuit, and voilà, Must de Cartier.

The composition is miraculously smooth and sparkling thanks to its florals and citruses while also sporting deeper, richer facets of wood, musk, and leather. It plays on the skin like sunlight dancing on the rippling surface of a lake in summer, awash in the golden light of sunset. I think many will find it more wearable than its muskier, spicier, sultrier relatives, and less dated. The contrasting olfactory tonalities here make it suitable for any gender, season, occasion, and time of day. The bottle is sturdy, retro, and a pleasure to hold. I imagine this was more of a powerhouse upon its release, but the current formulation does more than okay for itself in terms of performance as well. What a gem!!

Must is a superior classic that has held up well through time. Must is also excellent to layer ontop of vintage Opium. Opium now has its base patina but lost the top sparkle. Must adds some of that freshness back. Unbeatable duo.

This is sophisticated and exciting, erotic, but in a very subtle way, warm and distant at the same time. I liked the vintage Obsession, but this walks in mansions with libraries and Obsession walks in alleys with drug dealers. The allure and decadence element in both can be compared perhaps, but at different levels. Must is wisdom and Obsession is street smart. Must is silk and Obsession is synthetic.

Such a beautiful smoky warm oriental unisex scent by today’s standards. Very similar to CK Obsession(women’s and men’s!) this is like those two combined, but more musky, close to the skin and soft. Less synthetic, very cool. Old school but still timeless. Just comforting and beautiful. Get a hold of it if you can. I’m glad I found a 3.3 oz bottle. It seems hard to come by anymore.

Oh, the perfumes of the 80s, with this pile of notes inside... so complex, what a times!

Yes, I agree with all the reviews that compare it with Calvin Klein's Obsession (even more close with Obsession for men), but I think that this one is infinitely better.
For example, its scent is very pleasant and it feels more natural than Obsession, which clearly feels much more synthetic and artificial.
Whenever I buy a Cartier perfume I know it will be an elegant and full of quality perfume, always! In that Cartier doesn't fail.

It is a perfume with a moderate but very noticeable sillage, it doesn't get Oh, the perfumes of the 80s, with this pile of notes inside ... so complex, what times, now with few notes and so simple.

Yes, I agree with all the reviews that compare it with Calvin Klein's Obsession, but I think that this one is infinitely better.
For starters, its notes are very pleasant and it feels more natural than Obsession, which clearly feels much more synthetic and artificial.
Whenever I buy a Cartier perfume I know it will be an elegant and quality perfume, always! In that Cartier does not fail.

It is a perfume with a moderate but very noticeable sillage, it does not get will overwhelm.
Perfectly wearable by a man of any age, I don't consider it feminine but unisex. Enjoy this piece of art!

Thanks to Fragrantican Anilinam for recommending this to me. I bought a new travel-sized bottle.

MDC is an amazingly good unisex Oriental by today's standards. On my skin in fact, it smells like a spicier Passion For Men - made with higher quality ingredients.

This is a very luxurious scent that transports you to a different place. I hesitate to say it's just for special occasions. I don't hesitate to say it will make you feel special when wearing it. At once empowering and comforting.

Must de Cartier is not to be missed.

Right, a CK Obsession smell - alike, however more complex and with more "depth" - each note feels dense.

It can be worn by men if applied lightly.

Together with CK Obsession for women, Must can be a good alternative if you miss CK Obsession for men the way it was at the time of its launch.

Layer them and you will have a good idea of how the last one was.

I agree with Henna Queen. The present day Eau de Toilet is very nice. I used to have a vintage Eau de Parfum but my niece liked it so much I gave it to her. It smelled great on her too.

I purchased the latest edt and couldn't be happier. Scent-wise, it isn't much different. Lighter yes, but composition, the same. Sure, it's not as rich as the vintage, especially since I had it in edp strength before, but it isn't as terrible as I was expecting it to be from all the negative reviews. Actually, for a reformulation I think it's very well done as it doesn't smell synthetic at all. I don't think it's outstanding or earth shattering, nor do I feel it's sultry or seductive, but to be honest, I never thought of it that way even when I had the vintage edp. I always thought of it as just a nice cozy subtle scent perfect for chilly days. I don't think it's anywhere near as spicy as Obsession, or even Shalimar, though it shares the delicious amber and vanilla notes. While it lacks their silage and longevity, it's not bad in those areas by a long shot. Just when I think the fragrance has disappeared, I move and suddenly I can smell it again.

Honestly, this really isn't my house as not many of their perfumes are appealing to me; but out of all the Cartier scents I've tried to date (and I've tried quite a few) I think this is my favorite. Considering that this is a reformulation I think Cartier did a great job, especially in light of the restrictive confines they've had to work within.

If you must get a vintage there are plenty of bottles available online; but if you like the overall scent and are not particular that a few little nuances might have been lost in the reformulation, this is a nice alternative.

This is beautiful. Very much like CK Obsession which has been a long time favorite of mine. It opens with a blast of bitter green galbanum but that quickly fades. Then it's all about cozy amber, rich woods, and spicy vanilla-tonka. My kind of fragrance for winter. Gorgeous oriental!

𝙸𝚏 𝚢𝚘𝚞 𝚊𝚛𝚎 𝚖𝚒𝚜𝚜𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚝𝚑𝚎 𝙾𝚁𝙸𝙶𝙸𝙽𝙰𝙻 𝙼𝚞𝚜𝚝 𝚍𝚎 𝙲𝚊𝚛𝚝𝚒𝚎𝚛 𝙴𝙳𝙿 𝚏𝚛𝚘𝚖 𝚝𝚑𝚎 𝟷𝟿𝟾0'𝚜 𝚊𝚗𝚍 𝚎𝚊𝚛𝚕𝚢 𝟷𝟿𝟿0'𝚜, try 𝐗𝐄𝐑𝐉𝐎𝐅𝐅'𝐒 𝐈𝐕𝐎𝐑𝐘 𝐑𝐎𝐔𝐓𝐄. Ivory Route, Obsession (from the 1980's, not the re-formulation, and Must de Cartier all have the same 𝒈𝒐𝒓𝒈𝒆𝒐𝒖𝒔 𝒏𝒐𝒕𝒆𝒔 𝒐𝒇 𝒂𝒎𝒃𝒆𝒓, 𝒗𝒂𝒏𝒊𝒍𝒍𝒂 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝒔𝒂𝒏𝒅𝒂𝒍𝒘𝒐𝒐𝒅.

𝐼 𝑝𝑟𝑜𝑚𝑖𝑠𝑒: 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙 𝑡ℎ𝑎𝑛𝑘 𝑚𝑒 𝑙𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟.

I have a red cap EDT, batch code 3AAC. Does that mean it's from 2003 or 2013? Regardless, this smells like an 80's version of Shalimar! Powdery, green and a touch of leather and civet. I love it.

It is a classic and can be worn easily by both men and women. My husband sampled it last night and it smells amazing on him. He also likes to wear Shalimar EDT, and he rocks it, too! So this is right up his alley. Must de Cartier has been likened to Obsession for Women but I find that it reminds me more of Obsession for Men. Not a dupe by any means, but distant cousins. Both have a Shalimar-like vibe to my nose.

Must de Cartier EDT is definitely going in my regular rotation. It suits my chemistry and personality. A little spicy, with powdery elements that compliment the galbanum and tonka. I do not know how much my red cap EDT differs from the true vintage versions, but this is one helluva beautiful scent.

Smells so '80s! Can't really imagine wearing this out as I feel like this is wearing me rather than the other way around. Also it gives me a bit of a headache. Still it's really fun to wear at home, it is a scent that unfolds all kinds of stories in my head.

Another reformulation horror story. I have two bottles. One has the red cap and the other has the clear cap. The older formulation (red cap-batch code 1JAB- Sept.2011 ) is the one you want. The newer formulation (clear cap-batch code 2KAA- Oct. 2012) is good but is certainly lacking the vanilla and amber depth and richness of its former glory. It is no longer sultry and alluring and lacks the warmth, depth, density it used to have.

Addendum....very confused. I purchased another old formula (red cap) but the batch code- 4FAE- per CheckFresh site states that it was produced in June, 2014. It looks and smells exactly like my other older formulation red cap bottle but was produced AFTER my clear capped newer formulation bottle.


Red cap versions are not abundant but still available per ebay. Get one before it is too late.

It is a scent for a sophisticated, reserved and confident lover. Someone who knows the thrill is in the chase and in the anticipation. Someone not infected with the modern world's neurosis and culture of narcissism and cheap, undignified instant gratification.

One of the best orientals for me ever. Very original bitter green opening with galbanum and mandarin over one of the best ambery woody bases. The new edt version lost that powdery and dense woody character with carnation, rosewood and sandalwood in the first versions but the perfume version still has it. Very opulent, rich and elegant vanilla amber perfume.

Just received my 100ml EdT, gold cap, red box. I absolutely love this oriental scent, however I do wish it was a bit stronger. Or maybe I'm just getting nose fatigue. Has anyone else had projection/longevity issues with this one? I can definitely still smell it a bit after an hour, but my beloved Obsession is way, way more potent than this.

So heavy I could not bear it , maybe because of the Galbanum

While I agree this is in the same vein as Obsession I prefer this. It's less but more . Less bitter green opening, less civet and musk, more gourmand vanilla custard. Not as much of a cinnamon note. I find Cartier perfumes to be in the safe side( not weak but not powerhouse sillage bombs). Managed not to smell cheap or sleazy as some old school musks can( to my nose, people! No offense).
If you like the idea of Obsession but find it a bit too much, try this.
I rd definitely unisex. Id like this on a man too.

I was looking for a "go-to" daily "oriental" unisex type-thing : and I found it! I got a great deal on a used bottle (the FLUID IS DARKER in mine- than in new bottles- so look for this selling point as the darker ones are older/vintage).
Bottle itself is nice . I LOVE BUILT IN SPRAYERS, (I hate caps) .
So yeah, you get a CK Obsession/Opium/Tabu vibe, but nothing too crazy. I'd call this "office friendly" it gets mellow as it dries down. Longevity is average. Right now there are probably niche fragrances on the market,that smell just like this but cost $235.00 a bottle !

MdC is a big, bold 80's vintage pretending to be high end. It's well blended and doesn't have a cheap bone in its substantial body, but it's still affordable, which is nice for cash challenged consumers who want to smell nice.

There's nothing delicate about this fragrance, which makes it less than work safe. Good sillage and lasting power. Very unisex, leaning towards the masculine. MdC does slightly resemble Obsession, although it lacks the strong cinnamon notes and sticky sweetness of O.

Sad reformulation

Must is a deep love of mine since I was a small girl and I could smell it around on elegant grown up ladies. It is quite unique having several shades in itself, green gabanum, bitter fruits, a dense flower bouquet heart, addictive leather, and a sweet warm base blend of amber, tonka and vanilla. The perfume version is just absolutely perfect but the standard edt is great for day wear. A must try for vintage lovers. Perfectly unisex.

i was so much in love with it but they've changed the formula and now i'm missing this "something " in it which was making the scent so incredible. i guess i will be still buying it desperately hoping they will go back to the previous formulation one day. Nevertheless it is still a nice scent.

I've owned this perfume since it was released. I still like it and use it for a night out, I now live in tropical weather, so night its the only time I can use it. But much to my regret, this current formulation is only a like.

Having said that, I thank LVMH for continuing to make it, in an era where so many fragrances have been discontinued. I find it is a lovely sophisticated fragrance with which I could never part. Must de Cartier will always be in my wardrobe.

Rich, warm, gorgeous and lasting . This is similar to Obsession, but has a bit of green added. It is sophisticated , alluring, sexy . Wonderful and the EDT is affordable.

I would love to know if the EDP of this is worth the high price. This is a fantastic spicy vanilla that has a lot of depth .

Came across a misplaced bottle of vintage Must de Cartier. Spritz inside elbow and went about day. It has been developing into something delightful. I'm all for galbanum, citrus, civet, leather. But I can detect PINEAPPLE in the fading scent, a note I've ever detected before. Obsession has too many spices for my liking, but this has something special I must yet explore. We're going to be friends this fall and winter.

Unexpected love, this one (edt). More opium than YSL Opium, in a way. It doesn't have the unyielding assault on modern nostrils that my vintage Opium does, and I'm willing to bet money that a light application of this would magically draw out the gentleman in the men in your life and make the women ask if you had your hair done or went to the spa. Excellent choice for a smoker, certainly on par with Habanita.

This review is for vintage red cap bottle...edt.
I currently own and love the new Must de Cartier,which is the reformulation...very Obsession/Krazy Krizia like type scent. Today...I received the vintage EDT of Must and I am overwhelmingly HAPPY !! This is the stuff I first sniffed years ago and loved,but never purchased.
The vintage is more floral-ish and greener,but still holds that spicyness. The carnation note is much more upfront in the vintage,to my nose.To ny nose and chemistry it is way OK to have both, due to the distinct differences in the two...IMO.
A classic revisited....and thankfully...an amazing moment.

I just received my sample of this, and it is an incredible beauty. A deep rich Oriental, elegant and spicy, with excellent longevity and remarkable silage. It has an underlying powdery note which only shows itself at the "end" of the trail. If this scent was a color, it would be a shining copper, warm and gold in the sunlight. Perfect for a summer afternoon drifting into evening. A keeper.

Agree totally with Elsee. NO comparison, unfortunately. I was so disappointed with the new formulation.

I started wearing this in 1982 when it came out. It was gifted to me when I was living in Cairo. I wore it for years.
Sadly the formula has changed and it doesn't smell the same at all. I want to love it but it gives me a major headache.

Clean, soapy green. This is a light (for the era; late 70's/early 80's) galbanum fragrance. Unlike many of it's contemporaries has a clean, even evanescent feel, despite the presence of civet. I don't get anything balsamic; to me, this is a very cool, detached fragrance. I get more Jacomo Silences, or Chanel 19, than anything oriental. Delicately woody/rosey, nestled in a cool green nest; gives it an almost laundry-like feel. This was apparently Cartier's attempt at a "light oriental" and I think they succeeded. There may be nothing that stands out about Must but it's a lovely, smooth, well crafted green scent. A great place to start exploring older styles of fragrances. More friendly than No. 19, less wild and sap-like than Silences. Orderly and immaculate in a calm, approachable way.

I’ve worn it for years. Very dry and woody. Like pencil shavings but in a good way. Sexy, spicy, deep. But I feel confident wearing it at the office and in hot weather. Never turns bad or cloying even after 24 hours. It’s expensive and it smells like it and wears like it.

Tried it on a blotter,loved it,reminded me of Vent Vert by balmain,then went back to spray some on me,30 minutes later it had turned into fly spray!ghastly,couldnt wash it off fast enough!

I have never had the opportunity to try this one. But I read in a book that it is the perfect fragrance for a Scorpio woman, so I hope I come across it one day. Seems to expensive to blind buy.

Find the vintage -- just find it. It doesn't even compare to the newest version. It's glorious, it's deep, it's old school and it's sexy as hell. Find it. Nuff said.

I'm a child of the 80's (born in the late 60's) but had never tried this fragrance until today. Got a vintage mini and tried it out today. I'm not getting the comparison to CK Obsession. I had a big old bottle of CK Obsession that I bought in the '80s, and this doesn't resemble it. Never the less, Must de Cartier is an in your face, big hair don't care, '80s era delight! It has that lovely hairspray accord that brings me back over thirty years ago to my youth (when we all had giant cans of Aquanet).

I got a mini of this off Ebay because I was so certain I'd like it but didn't want to commit to a full bottle. It's so nice! It is like Calvin Klein Obsession with a big fat galbanum note sitting on top.. I love it. Green and herbaceous but oriental and spicy at the same time. It is definitely something to wear to be noticed.

I grabbed an EDT of this for $20, and yesterday it came.

WHAT MEMORIES!!! OMG! <3 Except, it's memories of the 1990s because I wore Obsession. (Must came first in 1981, and when I wore Obsession, I'm going to assume it was an original formula being about 1996-2000).

But that doesn't mean it's a bad scent. I love it. Brings back many memories, and has wonderful sillage and potency. I went spray-cray but it wasn't overpowering or cloying. (I layered with 90s Shalimer EDP after 4 hours, but Must quickly broke thru and made the Shal disappear).

The sillage radiates all sweet Obsession (spicy sweet musky amber) but up close I def get the green-spice more. I WISH I got the aldehydes, leather, galbanium, and civet since I love vintage notes, but this version is prob stripped of them due to reformulations. Bummer.

This is not quite creamy, too dry for that, but it does evoke a warm, happy feeling of sitting by the fireplace on a cold day. I don't have a fireplace, so Must and I will pretend. ;)

A serious, grown up fragrance, it will mortify the young ladies who love their sugar bombs, another reviewer mentioned that this is a dangerous fragrance to give to a young girl..so true!
Sophisticated, musky, woody, exotic...it drapes sensuously on its wearer, the vanilla is not of the screeching sweet variety, but slightly acrid, which gives this fragrance its depth. I also get that Coca Cola and bourbon hit on first application, but ever so slightly and it's gone in a flash, so not at all disturbing.
Longevity is ridiculous...wear it at 8pm and you'll revisit it at 7am on your skin, only softer and slightly powdery like a vanilla soufflé. So what's not to love about this?
My aunt who is 91 wore this for many years, however, she had the original version, and it was breathtaking on her. I have the newer formulation, and although it hasn't got that jaw dropping, swoon inducing effect of its predecessor, it's still a classic beauty that's too good to pass up, and at a sensible price. I would snatch up one of these before they're all gone and we are bemoaning the loss of yet another classic in the not too distant future.

As I have fallen in love with galbanum fragrances I really wanted to try this. Yesterday my sample arrived and I can´t stop smelling it since then. This is definitelly my cup of tea. It is very difficult to describe this sensuous, sophisticated and rich scent. The beginning may be sharp for somebody but after a while I can feel lovely spicy and floral notes. I can´t wait to buy this into my collection. It is simply must.

This is the review for new EDT, batch code check says it was made 2/2016 (clear glass, golden cap).
I can not object to any reviewer who states that this, many times reformulated EDT is a shadow of the vintage EDT and that The Giant is fallen, because I have vintage and, in my oppinion, the regrets about the scent begone are in place.

BUT, for all those who did not try the vintage, I have to say that - in a reasonable price range and outside of niche - this most recent EDT iteration of Must is still worth a try.

Current EDT is still nobile, warm but green, sharp and velvety, aromatic, ambery-woody, slightly leathery and vanillic oriental.
In today's context, Must is absolutely unisex, and fitted for today's etiquette of moderate silage.

The heaviness of the 80-ies classic is gone, and thickness is transformed into into light but still substantial aura.
So, if you compare this 2016 iteration of EDT to vintage, adjective "pale" comes to mind, BUT - if you are comparing it to whatever in today's high-end designers section - this EDT is perfectly ok.
Must is cosy, elegant, warm, serious, particular, familiar, distinct, and - as time goes by - more modern, not-mainstream and niche-like than it was in the beginning of this millenium.
Paradox? Maybe.
But even if looks like a paradox, if you are in search for non-sweet / unisex oriental combo of woods-amber-leather-aromatic-vanilla with the fresh, green element, you will probably have to leave today's designer's market, overfloded with sweeties, fruitchoulies and other play-for-sure scented mediocrities, and either reach for vintage or reformulated classic, or go to niche. And then, chances are that, after you look around the niche, you wil eventually find that the grass is not always greener on the other side, but is almost always more expensive.

Test Must before that.
Test it, just because it is smart thing to do.

For current EDT (2016)
* like (love remains attached to vintage version only)
* silage: moderate (arms lenght at first three hours, after that just a bit more than a skin scent). Current EDT is very far from being silage-bomb. There, it is perfectly ok for office and works beautifully as day-time unisex. The scent descretely marks personal space, but does not intrude other's. (Still, I wish that performance is better.)
* longevity: moderate (up to 6 hours, but it needs very generous applying.)
* time: For me - the true "golden autumn" fragrance. As last autumn, I'll start wearing it again when leaves start falling and days become short and rainy, but not really cold. Day. Night. Casual to formal.

I don't know how old my bottle is. It's the parfum spray, in a long thin rectangular red glass bottle with gold top, that was packaged in a clear red plastic box that looks like a hard glasses case. 2000-ish edition maybe? Anybody know? I tried researching the packaging but only saw it described online as "vintage", although I doubt it's very old.

Anyway, on to the review...

I absolutely get the comparison to Obsession. But, in my opinion, it's just a superficial comparison. Must de Cartier is much more complex than Obsession. The notes really do develop and change over time. Just when I think it's reached the final drydown, some new notes move into the forefront and it takes on a whole new dimension.

It's an interesting fragrance. Definitely one to put aside until cooler weather though.

Now I'm intrigued about the original formula, I'll have to track down a mini and compare them.

Must de Cartier was launched in 1981, while Obsession was launched in 1985.

It's not that Must smells like Obsession. Rather, Obsession's greatest wish was to grow up to be Must de Cartier.

Unfortunately, such a lofty goal is unattainable.
No matter how loudly Obsession yells out its presence, the harsh reality is, Obsession never had the innate elegance of Must de Cartier, and to top it all off, it never attended the right schools either.

It's not Obsession's fault. I actually like it and own it. It's just the harsh reality of it's condition.

What Obsession should do, is focus on it's strengths, which are: that even though it was created to emulate Must de Cartier, Obsession was astute enough to pick up and treasure some of the spices that were so carelessly left behind by 1977's Opium when she shed some weight. This has rendered Obsession quite the sexy unisex bombshell for fall/winter/night.

While Must de Cartier is, and will remain, the most elegant of classics in my book.

A gentleman informed me of this fragrance's existence this evening and I've never been more glad. I adore Cartier as a house and a fragrance developer.

Ever since trying Le Baiser du Dragon, I've wanted to own it and several other Cartiers. Oddly, this escaped my sight

Looking at the notes, I get very confused. At times they seem to indicate a close relationship to Chanel's No. 5 but at other times they seem to scream Obsession. Very very keen to get my nose into this.

My mother wore this and so did my aunt, whom in my childhood imagination, embodied what a movie star must have been like in real life. (Imagine a loving and kind version of Joan Crawford... that was my aunt). I remember wishing to grow up in order to wear Must de Cartier.

The first time I owned this magical elixir, it was a gift by a friend who gave me the 4ml parfum version. She knew I loved the scent, and God bless her heart, thought of me as sophisticated enough, as to be able to pull it off when I was 18 years old. Every time I wore it I felt a mixture between empowered and as though I were 4 years old wearing my mother's heels.

Since then, either the EDT or the EDP (different formulations created by different perfumers) have been part of my wardrobe. There is as much of a difference between the vintage parfum and the vintage EDT, as there is between the vintage EDT and the reformulated version of the EDT. (All formulations, I currently own, and unabashedly hoard).

The different formulations range from more ambery, spicier, more vanillic and smoother potions, to cooler/green, and then to less complex fragrances, with less longevity and a more pronounced indolic heart, as you go down the ladder from vintage parfum to vintage EDT to current EDT. I'm not thrilled with the indolic nature of the current formulation, but the dry-down is still beautiful and long lasting.

However, I think it must be said: to Cartier's credit, the fragrance remains true to it's DNA, which is remarkable, when compared to many other classics that have either no resemblance to their former selves, or have entirely lost their soul.

To me, this is first and foremost an amber, a very complex amber, and it is precisely that well rounded complexity that makes this fragrance, in my view, the most elegant of all the fragrances I have ever encountered. It surpasses Bond No.9 Amber, Amouage's Ubar and even Serge Luten's Ambre Sultan (my second favorite amber). Factor in favorable online prices, and even if the quality of Ubar and Ambre Sultan is better than Cartier's current formulation, Must de Cartier is the no contest winner for both: value and scent.

It would be pointless for me to describe the scent, as many have done so eloquently already. If you're looking for a description, I recommend you read Sissi's from 2010 and Weegee's right below it. (Hover over the bottom right corner, you'll see the dates).

I however, can offer you this: Ever since my first bottle, just the act of purchasing Must de Cartier, has made me feel empowered. I have now grown into this perfume and I wear it every time I start a new job, or I need to go to an important meeting, or when I meet a man I value and admire. It is my suit of armor, the scent that clings to my cashmere sweaters, my "I think I can / pick-me-up" when I'm feeling low, my invisible strand of pearls.

Am I the only onw who thinks its smells like Anne Pliska?

It is wonderful. Just wonderful. I do get the comparison to Obsession that some people mentioned. Of course these two fragrances don't smell totally alike, but I see them being in the same vicinity, almost like distant cousins, with noticeable familiarity. Must is not so loud, sweet and smoky, but there is a vibe to it that is very similar to Obsession, in a classier, more subtle and refined way. And yes, it does smell oriental on me. I think it is a matter of how it reacts with your skin, nothing bitter here for me, but the most heavenly balsamic smoky sweetness. I think if you like one, you will like the other. Must is stunning. Definitely a scent that will stay in my collection.

Listen up, men. Buy this for your wife or significant other, then steal it. It's completely unisex. Not fruity, not flowery, NOT powdery. It makes a great winter-day scent for when you want to break away from the Paul Bunyan woodsy routine. It's a big ol Amber party that somebody invited Musk to, and it works.

This review is for the new version.
Received this today..and I am still "on the fence" about this one. I guess I need a full wearing,maybe. I do think it is somewhat "different" than the original. I remember years ago working with a girl who wore the original everyday...her signature scent....and I loved the scent on her...I did get this on eBay auction for a low cost...$19.99 plus s&h...so...I am not too upset..
I think this is the typical.."be patient, and let the scent develop with your chemistry " type scent. I have it on now, just sprayed, and already it is going thru changes on my skin....and it is making me "smile" more!
I get the spice,vanilla...and also a "nutty" tone...??
I am actually getting a touch of Valentino Uomo....??!!
Btw..the opening is aldyhede-ish for sure, but that dissapates, when the scent starts to develop.
This scent is a "kalidescope"....multi-faceted.
But, still....ohhhhh the original version....that would be the one. For now, this will do....
Now that it has "dried-down"....I am getting the "vibe" of the original!!! There is one note projecting that reminds me of what I used to smell from the original...the "ahhh...." there it IS !!
I need to follow my own advice about get to know the scent, and let it get to know...YOU. Patience, all.

Edit: After several full wearing of this....I LOVE,LOVE, LOVE it !!! Into my TOP 10 list...for sure. I am curious about Must de Cartier Gold now !!!

Beautiful rich nuanced fragrance that projects both confidence and comfort. I have to be light with the sprays or the galbanum takes over. One or two sprays and I get deep amber with the ylang ylang hovering over. As it dries down the vanilla becomes stronger and ultra comforting, with the green notes vibrating through. I keep trying to find a 80s masterpiece I like more than Must de Cartier, but I don't think I ever will.

This scent is like a woman’s pantsuit from the eighties: extravagant, timeless, and effortlessly gallant. This is a power bomb of aldehydes, civet, and vetiver; trademark ingredients from the golden age of perfumes. I was a little apprehensive about this fragrance, it’s certainly a statement piece with an extremely loud presence and great endurance, however I feel Must can also come off as slightly cold and intimidating.

On my skin this is a heavy composition of galbanum, woods, and aldehydes. Must phases out into a vetiver and sandalwood base with dry downs of carnation and supple leather. I can detect mild notes of civet but it isn’t overwhelming; I don’t pick up any roses, jasmine, or pineapple unfortunately. The dry down is a bit lackluster with mostly amber, aldehydes, and sandalwood. This is not a safe blind buy, like most fragrances from that time period, Must veers heavily into the “masculine” territory.

Personally I have yet to find a vintage chypre that doesn’t remind me of damp rotting earth; Must is actually quite enjoyable and one of the only eighties fragrances that I can stand. This is a power house, with the first application being strong enough to command the attention of a small village, and the longevity is incredible.

Overall I can see why this was a classic for over 30 years, it’s a legendary scent meant for the most sophisticated and powerful woman.

Vienna.Pink

Ellie-7 the formulation has changed. All perfumes have changed their formulation for various reasons.
I don't know what the old formulation smells like as I only have the new one. But I have Opium n from the late 80's and the current formulation and they are very similar but the new formulation is thinner and not quite as complex. I would imagine it is the same for Must de.

The new formula is NOT like the one I used to use in the 80's I am so disappointed. The retailer tells me it's the same but I know it's not. I used to LOVE this but now it's different and it gave me a headache.
Does anyone else find that it's different? Please let me know. I find so many of my old faves have changed :(

There are certain things in life that you don't understand. Ignoring this liquid jewel was one of them.
I just can't believe why I never discovered Must in all theese years, specially beeing addicted to those heavy perfumes of the 80's.
Let's get straight to the fragrance.
The opening is a little bit "juicy" on me but in a very nice way. The pinneaple maybe?
So this gives this european perfume a beautiful tropical note that for someone from a tropical country like me, is very familiar and pleasant.
Later on I get the green note that balances the sweet pinneaple followed by the alluring and enchanting jazmine that makes it adorable.
The base notes are a sexy and refined vanilla with perhaps some dark chocolate, shavings I would say that far from making it gourmand, give it a very intresting twist.
All this is finished by a sexy yet subttle civet ( artificial but refined ) that makes the whole thing a perfectly sensual, classy and alluring perfume that makes you feel gorgeous.
While there are fragrances that are female with no doubt ( despite what some people might say ), Must is perfectly unisex and feels divine on anyone.
I must agree that Must has some shared notes with Obsession, but that is not a bad thing when you keep in mind that Must was the inspiration ( it is not stated anywhere but come on! ). But while Obsession feels a little bit vulgar, Must feels luxurious, chic and bewitching.
Don't want to sound cheesy but for me Must is a must for anyone who loves those perfect 80's scents and specially when thinking that Must was the first oriental of that gorgeous era where most of the best perfumes were created.

gtabasso The oriental part is probably referring to the original PARFUM formulation, which is a completely different fragrance from both the vintage and current EdT - there ought to be separate entries for these, as it's really misleading!

This doesn't happen very often to me but I couldn't smell anything with this fragrance at the beginning. As it warms up I pick up cloves and amber but no flowers.
Then there is that pesky sandalwood. It doesn't ruin the scent for me but I know it is there. It amazes me that I never smelt Must when it first came out. I would probably have worn it if I had the chance. For 2016, I don't know. There is something in Must that is just a little sharp, can't put my finger on it. The tonka helps to smooth things out but still.......

No, I don't think I would track down a bottle of this.

Vintage 1oz Must edt.
This is the much maligned vintage edt in the smoky dark and red capped splash bottle.

I like it. It's a sexy green galbanum rosewood hit smoothed out with Tonka and vanilla and at times the dark cocoa note appears but it morphs into the sexiest unisex, bordering on masculine scent. I can't believe I'm calling green galbanum sexy but here I am. Its the sexy that when you inhale you smile.

In the 80s we played a lot with gender bending and it wasn't uncommon to wear a masculine type perfume.. bandit did it first, Yves saint Laurent introduced the women's tuxedo in the 70s..its the juxtaposition with a wink of irony that pulls everything off.

Bandit by Piguet was loved while this was shunned. Maybe I'm different than most, or open enough to give this unrelenting green opening attention..but if you run a cross it.. try it. On a man it would be super seductive.

This really is the sportier version as it is very different from the edp parfum versions.

Fragrance Review For Must De Cartier

Top Notes aldehydes, pineapple, mandarin, galbanum, peach, bergamot, brazilian rosewood lemon

Middle Notes carnation, leather, yellow narcissus, musk, orchid, orris root, jasmine, vetiver, neroli, ylang-ylang rose

Base Notes: amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver civet.

When perfume was perfume it smelled like Must de Cartier. This is an absolutely gorgeous fragrance. Just my type. The kind of perfume that makes me swoon. The opening has all the ingredients I enjoy in opening scents: aldehydes, sparkling, electric, and green galbanum, sweet juicy pineapple fruit as well as mandarin and peach. The citruses dissipate and reveal the scent to be an Oriental floral chypre. It has more chypre tendencies especially at the end. It has some fragrant rosewood and sandalwood I die for. It has unisex leather and musk. It has orchid, a sexy orchid, and carnation, silky, and yet strong. It has powdery orris and spicy vetiver and additional flowers of rose, narcissus and jasmine. I love the floral touches here. The dry down is sandalwood for days and there is also a touch of vanilla. I can describe this scent as being fruity, floral woodsy and balsamic. It's like a rich perfumed oil for the skin. Gorgeous, luxurious. It wears for hours, all day on me. I have nothing but love for this perfume and all the well made Cartier fragrances. I recommend all of them.

Are these people's noses broken? This is not close to Obsession or Krazy Krizia which I wear all the time! This is not oriental or spicy. This is an old-style bitter, aldehyde chypre. Straight up.

I' wearing the vintage parfum. I really thought I would like it, seeing the notes, but I guess a high dosage of galbanum doesn't agree with me. The opening is so bitter it makes me cough (something that never happens to me), it's not worth to wait for the sweet and warm vanillic drydown... I'm really sad about this but I'll have to pass it on.

I remember my mom had it before. It was so strong that it used to give me instant headaches so I had to run out of the room as soon as I felt it, haha. It smells quite musky and cinnamony, it totally fills the entire room!

This is very much like my signature, Obsession. The differences are: The opening contains a celery scent and the drydown sillage is much less than Obsession. I find that I need to reapply this upon drydown in order to get the level of projection that Obsession gives me.

dopo anni di allenamento, riesco adesso ad accostarmi ai cosiddetti grandi classici orientali senza troppo raccapriccio - chissà forse arriverà il momento in cui gradirò anche il n.5. oggi provo il must: ricchissimo, ipercomplesso, come molti profumi pensati e realizzati negli anni 80 e anche prima, quando la profumeria era astratta e surreale. la qualcosa aveva pure un senso: perchè, direi oggi, profumare di qualcosa che già in natura esiste? quindi spazio alla creazione, unica, irripetibile, originalissima. di cose così ce ne sono tante e tante sono quelle molto riuscite e assolutamente non datate. una di queste è must: che è verdissimo (prime note di galbano) e pare anche aldeidico, ma poi vira sul fruttato (nella piramide c'è frutta per tutti i gusti), sfiora il floreale passando per il legnoso e si ferma su un delizioso resinoso. inutile citare tutte le sensazioni provate, sono troppe, e ogni pelle sia maschile che femminile (questo è un profumo decisamente unisex) riuscirà a scatenarne alcune piuttosto che altre. come per altri capolavori quali k de krizia o helmut lang, si tratta di un senza tempo che ancora ammalia. ottimo.

Hello from Decodawn. Must de Cartier is a Giant of a fragrance in the perfume world it has been 35 years since it was first launched and it's appeal is everlasting. A perfume that radiates from the skin and is quite strong at first spray sillage is huge and could fill a room but eventually after half an hour settles to arms length. Top note is a burst of fresh fruit & spice, whoosh straight up your nose but wait for it the middle notes are very powdery warm and eventually the base is a gorgeous comforting oriental scent consisting of Vanilla, amber, chocolate, caramel, but also powdery. MUST is both refined and sophisticated, sensual and very comforting. I can see the similarities between Guerlain Shalimar, Prada Amber and CK Obsession but they are definitely poles apart in relation to the refinement and quality of ingredients but for cheapness and a daytime replacement CK is very good value and a near decent copy. For all who are devotees to MUST it really is a monument to love and once you fall in love it usually lasts forever. Elegant, sexy but in a demure way this fragrance is exciting and classic and timeless. A MUST for any lady over the age of 30. Try it you will love it.

What is 80,s or early 90,s vintage EDT like ??? Is it different to the edp ? I read there totally different ?

This magnificent fragrance can be described in one word: PERFECT! MUST de CARTIER is a luxurious scent and one of the sexiest, sophisticated and original scents ever, this sure makes people heads turn. Rich, deep, heavy, oriental, complex, intoxicating, strong, timeless and a wonderfully sexy scent.

The first time I tried this fragrance was in a department store when I was around 16. I just went around spraying loads of different perfumes on my arm and then left the shop and went somewhere else. Suddenly I could smell what was quite possibly the best perfume I had ever smelt coming from my left arm. Other people in the shops remarked on it as well but because I had sprayed a lot of different perfumes on at once, i couldn't remember what it was called. I was positive it was a Cartier, but I didn't know which one.

About 4 years later, i decided to try and find it again, so i went to the Cartier section of the perfume shop and after determining that it was definitely not Pasha, picked this one up. I remembered the feel of the fluted glass bottle, so I was pretty positive that I had the right one, as no other Cartier fragrances (at that time) had fluted bottles. I sprayed this on my arm again and was instantly disappointed. It smelt sharp and off-putting, and nothing like the warm rich smell I remembered.

Then, after about 2 hours, that amazing scent was back! I had been right after all! The opening was a bit loud and screechy but the dry down was to die for. i could live with that for the sake of that dry down. I bought a big bottle right away and would never be without one now.

Also, and this is a bit weird, but the review below me remarked that this perfume smells like money. I agree, but i mean, literally, money. It smells a little like bank notes, as in that papery lineny, slightly metallic smell that they have. Although it's actually really lovely and not a dig at all!

This one is probably my favourite fragrance ever. It is not a scent for the shy wallflower types, but the best for a assured, grown-up woman sure of her sensuality. MUST de CARTIER is an irresistible secret weapon just a small spray of this can ignite quite an evening.

Longevity: 7-12 hours
Sillage- Moderate to Heavy

As I was removing it from the box it came in (along with a Must scented body cream) I could smell it.. and at a distance it must have been the lemon and leather but it smelled very green, almost mossy. I was a bit concerned! Then, I sprayed it.

I can honestly say I have not smelled anything like this before and I am very impressed. I keep smelling my wrist and swooning at it.

It is probably the most dry scent I own but it is not lacking in sophistication, or personality or warmth. She's filled with it and what she ultimately becomes on my skin is the perfectly spiced amber. There is true craftsmanship here and the scent is that of money, for sure, but also someone who takes care of herself and those around her.

Spraying too much of this would be overload I think, but as I like it so, I'd probably wind up spraying more than I should... I couldn't resist but do a couple sprays each arm because I really wanted to understand those notes and how they worked and how they worked on me.

Must I really feel is an evening fragrance. It has that character and sex appeal. I have always said go for it with a fragrance, wear it when you want and how you see fit, and I will rock this in the day if I feel the need or for a special occasion, but this is a super date night fragrance or a fabulous formal affair scent.


So glad I took a risk. It's just fantastic.

Note: This shits on Obsession, which smells like a Madame at a brothel and one I've never liked. It's way too in your face and the notes go weird. THIS is its own ballgame. You simply can't compare them.

Definitely an old classic scent. I received just a gift sample from Must and tried it today. To me at first weird dirty bitter (maybe I feel the civet, aldehydes, galbanum mixture) old (church, incense) stuff like the female Opium with powder/soapy undertones. Later it turns more pleasant soft oily powder (like grandma's perfume smell sorry), interesting, only not my style I think. I can imagine this on all gender, above middle age, older people.

COMBO SUGGESTION: Must + Dior's Hypnotic Poison

Combo suggestion: Vintage Must + Very Irrestiable Centifolia 2006 by Givenchy.

COMBO SUGGESTION: Must + Dior's Hypnotic Poison.

I'm writing another review on this one because when I first bought it several months ago, I almost sent it back. Fast forward, and this is actually my first full wearing of this fragrance. The opening, yes, it's similar to Obsession, albeit a little sharper. The dry down is thick, ambery, spicy and resinous. I own both though, so I do understand the comparisons between the two. I can't say that if you like one then you'll like the other because I love Obsession, and Must had to grow on me. It's a beauty though! Very classic scent that's warm and sexy at the same time. I agree with other reviewers that it brings out the femme fatale.

I will say that if you try it, make sure your sniffer in top notch shape; no sinus infection or anything, as it can really ruin the fragrance experience like it almost did for me. Overall, if spicy, warm scents are your thing, this is a Must!

I just wanted to add that this morning when I woke up, I had the most heavenly amber aroma leftover on my sheets from this scent. Also, my electric throw smelled amazing too! I really just wanted to curl up and sniff my electric throw and not go into work today. LOL

I've had various samples of the pure perfume, which I've loved but wondered if it is wearable for me? Recently I've got the edt thinking it was more of a vanilla fragrance, and it is, but also there is a lot of galbanium in it so in my opinion it smells very alike to the perfume. MdC is a very unusual and special perfume. For my wardrobe a decant fulfills my needs as I will use it rarely. For others, maybe a bottle would be needed? You'll just have to love the unusual green galbanum and warm sweet vanilla combination.

I have a mini of the original version.
It's pure heaven.

I was browsing on Sephora France just now and saw a new edition for Must it is called Must Gold and by the set of notes given by Sephora it seems less complex than the original anyway I can't wait to try it.
About original Must, I place it in between Dior Addict and Trouble by Boucheron it's a timeless classic that still smells amazing and sensual and can be found at a decent price on line

Someone gave me a sample of this, so I can't attest to whether it's new or old. But while the drydown is warm and spicy, the opening is caustic with citrus the way those 80's perfumes can be. I wouldn't be fit for public consumption for the first half hour after spraying. There's a price to be paid for perfume pleasure, and it's too high for me I'm afraid.

I have got leftovers of real Must, vintage juice, and it's the best thing that happened to me on fragrance journey in many years.

Must is like deep, yes, musty dreamy-rosewood composition, amber same as in Dune Dior by the way, its a man's baritone, or woman's contralto, very sensual yet approachable and friendly, -aristocratic democracy, if such thing exists in reality.
The leather is not very prominent, just a touch of it, like scented gloves, and flowers blended in one big deep smell of luxury, it is like all expensive body creams, clothes, oils been mixed together. I have never been in New-York, but such fragrance I would expect to smell on beautiful lady in The Plaza Hotel.
New version is OK, but very different, unfortunately.

i tested the parfum recently.

and yes, all the notes everyone else mentions are there..(not too sweet, but very thick). it does smell of chocolate ...but i left the room where i tested it...and when i came back in... Obsession. the room was full of "mmm...the smell of it". i remember the advert.

if you love Obsession, i would describe this as Obsession, but better.

i wore Obsession a LOT back when i was a grumpy teenager, so i can't decide whether that is the reason why i don't like Must or whether this deep, rich, warm scent is no longer my thing. probably both.

i enjoyed it for a several hours and the projection was incredible for a parfum! (though too much for me).

I came to Must de Cartier purely by accident.

After my Grandmother's passing, we found hidden away in a closet in her basement several paper bags filled with perfume testers that she had acquired from many years of working Fine Fragrance at Famous Barr in St. Louis, MO.

It was found in a plain white box, the Parfum, and quite vintage. I was intrigued that I hadn't heard of it before. A quick spritz and I was blown away first by the richness of the Galbanum--so green and gritty. The resins were there from the beginning--frankincense dominating in the beginning fading over many, many hours into a lush labdanum note. The bottle mentions that it has rose and jasmine although I didn't smell them initially. Their influence is very soft. It honestly reminded me more of a men's cologne from my dad's stash that I had smelled as a child--but I loved it and brought it home with me to treasure.

EVERYTIME I wear it, It gets complimented in the most funny ways. 100% Straight male friends have told me multiple times in multiple ways that it smells so amazing that they want to nuzzle just because they love it so much! LOL.

It's ambery richness is just like an old friend...I don't know how else to explain it. Perfect for fall and winter wear, although I have been known to indulge myself with a single spray to the left arm in the summertime and it's subtlety is complimentary to the hot Austin, TX summers. It's highly attractive, seductive and refined. I can't afford the Cartier watch, so I'll wear the next best thing--fragrance. I'm glad I found it!

This review is about the parfum, not EDT or EDP.
In their book "Perfumes" LT and TS called Must "the chocolate nobody wants".
Well, please pass me the chocolates box then, and let me have them all!
This is the most comforting, velvety, intriguing perfume I have ever smelled.
Warm amber, galbanum, vanilla and civet provide a beautiful background for flowers and spice.
The version I have smells very similar to Obsession (another great favourite of mine), but more refined, and without the basil note that makes Obsession obnoxious to some people (LOL).
The longevity is incredible, it just stays for many hours on your skin, and in the end you have this beautiful, elegant vanilla, so different from many recent fragrances; it is not an edible vanilla, it is just something you do not want to stop smelling, and you still crave for more.
Truly, the fragrance for a queen.

I've been in love with Le Muste for 30 years. It never fails to envelop me in its lovely spicy world.

This is one of those fragrances that is a true classic. If you like Dior Dune, or Chanel Allure for women, you will probably like Must. it's a strange scent, and it took me a while to get comfortable with it. I highly suggest this in Parfum concentration, and the body cream is divine as well! When I read the notes, it doesn't sound like something I would like. When I first put it on, I want to scrub it off, but I learned to wait and enjoy the pleasantness that ensures afterwards. Such a beautiful lovely scent, almost chocolaty in a way. Very sexy, warm, spicy, etc! Not for the faint of heart or young girls that just like something sweet.

planned to buy obssesion and since i could not put my hands on it and since i read obssesion and must are almost alike i tried must (edt. could not find the odp version) in a local drug store in order to know if i like obssesion and should order it blindly through the net. well i did not like must. to sweet with no freshness .longevity is good though. looks like no must nor obssesion for me...

Vintage Pure Parfum: This is one of my new favorites! This was a blind buy, but I had to have it based on the listed notes and reviews below. I love my 80's fragrances and in this one I can smell most of the notes listed. Just like the Macy's Day Parade, each note comes marching in large and oversized, leading with galbanum, then amber & vanilla, followed by sandalwood and rosewood. Civet and leather aren't far behind, and finally a trail of boozy fruit, citrus, and florals.

There is a sweetness, but not like the modern cotton candy scents. It's very green like a forest with dewy moss. It's warm, sensuous and animalic yet also luxurious and classy. This is a rich, sophistocated and womanly fragrance, a "Must" have perfume.

smells like a rich woman in a fur coat carrying the finest luxury leather purse, and dripping in cartier jewelery. fabulous.

I have recently purchased a vintage (1980s) set of Must de Cartier pure parfum along with a small jar of creme parfumee (purfumed body cream). I have tried both independently and now layer them, cream first followed by the parfum on my pulse points. It is an AMAZING, gourmand experience!
In the 80s I worked in a Miami nightclub where I got the opportunity to inhale some of the most noteworthy fragrances of that era. I recalled after asking someone what their fragrance was, she told me Must de Cartier--parfum NOT the EDT, emphatically. A boyfriend at the time gave me the EDT, and after trying was turned off but didn't recall the earlier advice given. I thought perhaps it was my body chemistry.
Decades later, I researched it only to learn that the two were; in fact, COMPLETELY different fragrances. The EDT was NOT designed by Jean-Jacques Diener like the parfum. According to Michael Edwards in Perfume Legends:
"The early Must eau de toilette was not constructed by Diener.It was supposed to be the "fresh" Cartier fragrance they had originally envisioned, which (rightly) confused the Must-lovers audience, who just expected a less concentrated version of this "chocolate nobody wants." Cartier scrapped it in 1993 and replaced it with Must de Cartier II."
I am glad I gave the parfum a second chance, and will continue to search for and purchase 1980s formulas of Must de Cartier Parfum and Creme Parfumee.
Anyone who loves the vintage parfum should steer clear of the vintage EDT.
I cannot comment on current formulations and reformulations. I understand that the current EDT was reformulated and is now a more appropriate representation of the parfum. However, being highly allergic to propylene glycol which is found in most EDTs and many other synthetic compounds...I will probably not be attempting to use any of the current formulae. I now know what works for me and am EXTREMELY happy with the delights of the vintage parfum. The combination of the vintage creme and parfum create a narcotic, gourmand appeal that I never tire of. They lie close to the skin without much sillage, which I prefer in an age where so many are afflicted with fragrance allergies. They do seem to last awhile, as I can still detect delicious hints upon my pajamas, pillows and sheets the following morning. Of course, they are neither easily nor inexpensively acquired...but certainly well worth the quest.

Potent but not loud. Oriental but not spicy. Flowery but not sweet. Richly perfect all the way around. Made for woman, but it has a unisex vibe to it that is not common in most fragrances. It's richly expensive smelling and gives off an interesting aura. As a guy I wear it with confidence, partly because it smells so damn good. If I had to pick the standout notes I say the rich amber, a clean, slightly sweet carnation and the heavy vanilla are the ones that strike me most. Old school in the best possible way, this is a standout classic. I love it.

A profoundly retro perfume that harks back to the orientals of the 1980's.

This is not a fragrance for a young woman, or even a women who is young at heart.

It is big, dominant and mature, opening with deep resins and florals, moving to a very classic "oriental" midnote that is perhaps a shade sweeter than most, and then finishing with a vanilla/tonka basenote that is much milder than the opening of the perfume might suggest.

There is a little civet there, and perhaps a little leather, but those elements only serve to reinforce how dominant this female fragrance is.

It has some sisterhood with Baiser du Dragon (also Cartier) and both are extraordinarily different from the fresh, mild and original scents Cartier is mostly producing at present.

The sillage is considerable.
But the longevity is shorter than I expected from the opening, and it is mostly gone within four or five hours.

This is not the perfume for me, even in middle age. Too forceful, too unforgiving.

This begins with yellow flowers for me... I feel the narcissus and definitely the ylang, and, although yellow flowers are not usually my "thing" I enjoy them here, and wish they would extend their visit. :)
Pretty quickly, a beautiful musk and amber shine through, with a powdery, dry sandalwood... also lovely. The musk is somehow soapy and a bit skanky (thank you, civet!)... an almost impossible balance to find in any perfume. No laundry here, no armpit either, just goood, creamy musk that is powdery but not in a "talcum" kind of way, and a gorgeous, silky-smooth leather that only adds to the animalic smoothness I love here.
The note pyramid is daunting... I get very little, if any of the fruits, maaaybe a hint of orchid and rose... and just barely enough carnation and aldehydes to give the perfect nod to vintage elegance... perhaps a *bit* dated, but I happen to enjoy that in perfumes, if it is done subtly.
The overall impression, for me, is a soft, warm, skin-like clean... a billowy cloud of musk and sandalwood that breezes over my skin ,like an amber curtain, but also manages to project just enough, and holds on tight!
Must is sexy, but in a soothing way, like an intimate embrace with a well-known, comfortable lover.
My husband is not on board just yet, which makes me a bit sad... I wish he could find this as sexy as I do, but his tastes lean more toward the super-sweet or verrry spicy/woody. I haven't got him on the animalic/musky team yet.
Oh, well... I love it, and I don't mind sniffing myself, at length... ;)

Sniffing Must makes me hang my head in shame; how come I've tested 1000+ fragrances during the last years and skipped this opulent oriental wonder?!
I mean, looking at the notes was like:
- Galbanum? Meh.
- Leather? No, thank you.
- Civet? Neeext!

At last I was gifted a vial carrying some deep amber/cognac liquid labeled as ''Must de Cartier'' which was no less than the vintage parfum.

The first thing I noticed was the galbanum which can be shaped in many forms and this one comes close to the kind found in Safari by Ralph Lauren. Here is mixed with some heady woody spiciness which apparently comes from the rosewood + carnation + tonka and reads as cinnamon bark. I don't get much of the sparkling green notes but that's probably due to the parfum formulation. Then it gets warmer, smoother, sweeter as the amber and vanilla come forth and mix with the previous notes which are always present.

So what about the animalic elements that scared me in theory? Well, I can say that I get no skunk whatsoever, only warmth and the impression that it smells not like just as a mix of notes but like a living creature with flesh and bones. Almost feels like being hugged by a friendly furry bear(!)

The galbanum provides some chypre-like elegance wrapped in warm oriental opulence, I find this concept very clever.
Can imagine Must worn by a person who possesses well deserved authority along with genuine compassion and kindness. Superb.

Oh baby, I bought this jewel again today. It's the 2nd bottle I own in my life and I simply love it. I only buy the Parfum, the extract because that's the one that lasts and has a deep sensual scent that I love. All the woods are represented nicely, the leather comes in perfectly, I smell the vanilla and the Tonka bean ( killer combination), it's both strong and warm as it has a sweet and subtle touch as well...... In love with this and a bottle can last you years since you don't need much.....

A year ago I wouldn't like it (I was all in flowery bouquets, and creamy-dreamy stuff,..lol) but now MUST it's an epytome of a perfume with a character and somehow, old soul. It's mature, adult and sexy in a good, not vulgar way. In a bold sophisticated and confident meaning. I don't get any leather notes (some of reviewers are mentioning it a lot)- but maybe it's so very well blended, that I can't detect it or is amazingly wrapped in some other note.
It's deep and dark, unforgettable scent with great longevity and sillage.
I smell some bitterness in and at this fragrance I really feel fragrances can't devide to genders. It can't be only for women.
But, you men, have so many oud, cypress, cedar and vetyver amazing fragrances (wored by some women, too) that you can leave it for us- ha, if you can ;)-

Love this scent for how similar the opening is to "Obsession" (before it was reformulated and "neutered")....after the initial spicy blast, it disappoints a little when quite a few flowers take over rather than more spice or warm vanilla. Still it is worth the flowers for the oriental, spicy opening and lingering notes. It is not HUGELY noticable after about 45 minutes, and is never AS sweet and inviting as old-school obsession was thoughout the dry-down, but it's "doable" ...... I think it's kind of watered-down in the EDT form, and wonder if there is not an EDP of "Must" which would make the spices linger longer.....but overall, it's a nice fragrance, lasts an adequate time (not forever like Obsession) and smells ritzy and works well for a confidant woman.

I'll start by saying .. WOW!

This is a "love" for me and definitely a fragrance I'm willing to repurchase over and over. I didn't think it was very feminine, but more masculine or unisex. It's very sexy. Smells even better on me after smoking cigarettes. I can definitely smell a strong Amber, Galbanum and some Vanilla (mostly). It's buttery and a little edible for me. I really enjoyed wearing for the first time.

It lasts a long time, with a pretty moderate sillage. Overall, I find it classy, expensive smelling. I like the fact that it gives such a big spray cloud. Very nice dry down, gets better and better.

I remember when I was a little girl, my aunt used to wear this.
At that time she was a very sophisticated, well dressed, single lady with good taste & her entire apartment always smelled like 'Must' de Cartier.
I adore this scent!! It's warm, sensuous, it's my cosy perfume.

Nowadays it's slightly lighter than what I remember but it's still 'Must'

Update on my previous comment

I probably have been too harsh in my previous posting as I decided to spray Must again yesterday and even though the uberstrong sillage it used to project is no longer here, I must say it is a very good...reformulation. Must was still there standing on my bathroom shelf tempting me very day since March and I gave it a second go.
To my sense it is a more unisex oriental at the bottom of the pyramid of the "vanilla" ones that are my favourite: Must, Obsession and the queen of all Shalimar! There is a certain fresh burst in the opening which is makes it more masculine than feminine (maybe caused by the reformulation) before heading into the balanced vanilla, powdery, flowery notes: not too risky, almost shy and turning into a very safe skin scent.
The bottle is very masculine too and feels heavy in the hand! I know there was a version for men in the past, have Cartier combined both into one?...

Apologies Must, I have misunderstood you, let's become friends again!

I used to wear Venice by Yves Rocher back in the early 90's, and was rather sad when it was discontinued. Flash forward to the present when I was fortunate enough to get a 1996 formulation of Must from someone's personal collection. At first spray I was (happily) struck by the similarity between the two fragrances... however that's where the similarity ended. The depth, complexity, and longevity of Must is far superior. It is truly a beautiful scent. On my skin the amber is prevalent, and blends harmoniously with the rosewood. Perfect for colder weather as it envelops you in warmth and comfort. Seems to me it would be well suited to a glass of wine in front of the fireplace... can't wait!

The Orientals are possibly the most difficult group of fragrances for me to wear, and Le Must is one of this rare sacred group, by and large, because of the huge galbanum(green) opening which mutes what would otherwise come up smelling harsh on my skin. Michael Edwards writes extensively in one of his books of a few years back about the creation of this perfume, and it helped me to see why I inexplicably love this. The only other orientals I wear are vintage Dioressence, Anne Klein II, vintage Chantilly, Balenciaga's Prelude, and perhaps one or 2 others I can no longer remember. Yves Rocher's inexpensive Venice was a good ringer for this but I found that its scent doesn't hold up in the bottle. So, I eventually had to throw away what was unused after 2 or so years. Obviously, the Cartier Must has much higher quality materials, as you can tell if you take the time to let it enfold gradually on your skin, and appreciate how it moves, shimmers, and radiates with the passage of time. This is undoubtedly a beautiful creation, and even if I didn't like it well enough to wear it, I would still admire it's complex messages.

I just received this in the mail as a blind buy. I have to say it's the beginning of a beautiful love affair. This fragrance is a beautiful creation with many twists and turns as it develops. I have to admit that I probably wouldn't have appreciated this in my twenties but over the years (mid 40s now) I've come to love more complex fragrances.

I have fallen in love with this fragrance! The carnation, the leather mmmh and then the soft amber drydown sums it up for me. Its candlelight, dark velvet and twinkling diamonds, rich and warm and sexy. Love to spritz the back of my hand when I go to bed and fall asleep sniffing it, it just hypnotizes me!

Will definately keep buying.(might need therapy if its ever discontinued!)

A holy grail for many. Must EDT: Take a combination of galbanum, amber-musky flowers, and leather, and seed it with a touch of dry vanilla and you've got a clean, wearable edition of the hypnotic Nicolaï pour Homme or 3ème Homme. Must and NpH (Nicolaï pour Homme, not Neil Patrick Harris) are irresistible for a reason - they're beautiful and amazing on a woman or a man (well, maybe the same is true for NPH). But Nicolaï pour Homme and 3ème Homme have an added nuance: the "I was in a hurry at the stall and accidentally dripped in my tighty whities a few hours ago" accord. Cartier left this tinkly touch out and left the beauty in (as I'm sure it is with NPH's shorts). Must is spellbinding, captivating, and marvelous.

I had the vintage one in 1990, in the gold case and red leather box, lined with silk. This is a timeless masterpiece and so beautiful on every level - from the opening to the luxurious elegant trace that it leaves on your skin. It makes you feel glamorous and attractive. It is sophisticated and smells of danger. I would love to buy it again, yet the negative comments about the reformulation are making me have second thoughts.

I received my bottle today and gave a tiny spritz on the back of my right hand. To describe or not to attempt to describe this oriental treasure trove. When I wear this I feel like a princess dressed in royal purple silk, my hair coiffed and my heart aflutter as I wait to accompany my prince to the ball in the beautiful banquet hall of an imposing palace. I get the comparison with CK Obsession. On me. However, this wears off into a beautiful leathery note and the vanilla steps forward. Gone is the princess and out comes a femme Fatal. with something spicy, reminiscent of Dior addict, but that is merely for a fleeting moment until the powder takes over. A soft spicy powder. I am not sure if I have a reformulated version of this, but I find this so deep and rich that if there was a deeper and richer version I would be afraid it would take my breath away. Certainly a perfume for a mature lady, danger in the hand of a young girl. A word of caution to fragranistas, spray lightly, less is more where Must deCartier is concerned.

I have the Vintage version of Must, this is the original formulation in a gold case. It is what perfume connesuiers live for. Top quality ingredients and uniqueness. Surprised that it's longevity is under 6 hours. Also have the newer formulation of Must. Neither bottle looks like the one pictured here. The newer version has better longevity, but doesn't smell as high quality as the original. They both have their place in my wardrobe. The vintage was worth the hunt to find it.

Both wear better in colder weather, however I am enjoying it as we move toward Spring. Normally I would wear it for dressy evenings, but I'm surprised how I've liked it during the daytime. So I'm broadening my rules for wear of this fragrance.

Is Must de Cartier a "must" or a "musk"?
Bought this fragrance based on:
1. My reminiscence of this scent back in the 80s
2. The close relationship with Obsession for Women, Eau de Parfum, that I would kill for
3. The great comments of the Fragranticans
I am slightly perplexed because expecting the wow factor when sprayed myself this morning, I only got the wrong factor instead. Huge disappointment!
Unfortunately, I do not get more projection and silage than with Musk by Jovān that costs 2/3 of the price I paid for Must. Also, where has the complexity I remember gone? Must used to be a shower of different notes such as toffee, vanilla, peach, summer fruits, caramel, a bit like Obsession but more classy and subtle. I only got a weak aromatic, vanilla, powdery whiff that dissipated after a few hours.
That makes me wonder what they have done to Must? Has it been reformulated? Weakened?
I really want to love it again, but I'm not sure if it is going to happen. I have Musk and Obsession to compensate and I think I will have to say goodbye to Must...

Such a great leather. Soft and buttery, almost suede-like. The first few seconds are very galbanum heavy, but the drydown is soft, honeyed, creamy and yet powdery.
Most distinctly I pick up the leather, sandalwood, rosewood and tonka. I believe the honeyed affect is coming from the narcissus. I also detect tiny hints of both peach & pineapple, but not enough to turn off a fruit hater such as myself.
I see the connection between Must and Obsession, but Obsession is just so much sweeter. On my skin, it's syrup. Must manages to be an excellently balanced and wearable amber/vanilla fragrance for me.
In a way, Must reminds me of Avon's Imari. Both have intensive sandalwood with aldehydes & galbanum keeping them fresh. Imari is definitely more soapy and floral, but they're cousins of a sort.

I love this scent. I bought it when I went to work at Cartier in the early 1980's and wore it for almost 10 years. I bought a bottle again on a lark about 4 months ago and walking through one spray of it into the air is still just enough. For me it brings back memories of going to the underground nightclubs in NYC with the most glamorous crowd you know,
The omnipresent Galbanum resin note is fascinating to me, I found this on Wikipedia about it:
"In the Book of Exodus 30:34, Galbanum is mentioned as being used in the making of a Ketoret which is used when referring to the consecrated incense described in the Hebrew Bible and Talmud. It is also referred to as the HaKetoret (the incense). It was offered on the specialized incense altar in the time when the Tabernacle was located in the First and Second Jerusalem Temples. The ketoret was an important component of the Temple service in Jerusalem. Rashi of the 12th century comments on this passage that galbanum is bitter and was included in the incense as a reminder of deliberate and unrepentant sinners."

Interesting.

Young people of both sexes compliment and ask what it is. as classic as it comes.

Classic yet extremely unique. Must de Cartier is very complex in its composition. It tends to be rather heavy and very 80's in its approach. Initially, it goes on very oriental with an ambery spiciness mixed with exotic fruits. In the heart, it becomes rather powdery.

This fragrance is so well balanced. The combination of spiciness, powderiness and vanillary amber is beyond words.

I have this scent... i saw a good bargain for this and purchased it. Mine however is the Must De Cartier Classic that comes with a leather pouch... i don't have any idea how this bottle differs to the one i currently have... all i can say however is that, though this is marketed for women, it doesn't smell exclusively for women. a man can wear it as well. you can think of a guy in tuxedo along with his briefcase and slid back hair... the scent is beautiful, sophisticated and it smells expensive. it's not offensively strong and it has depth. The top notes to middle notes and the base morphs. One beautiful scent!

I just got this new frag and am really enjoying it. My fear is that it could induce a migraine (aldehyde's do this frequently to me so I never know.),but I pray this one will not as it is simply stunning and complex. I am loving the fragrant twists and turns this carries. For now, I can say this is among a favorite in my Oriental category for sure! This is a perfect cooler weather scent. I live in the tropics and 70-80 degree winters will work just fine with Must!

This is so beautiful it makes me want to cry. I won't really add much to the description other than to say it's a lot of warm amber with some vanilla and many other ingredients I can't identify that add up to give something gorgeous. I simply adore it.

As a girl/teenager my mother gave me a small, leftover flask of this, still half-full, as a gift. There was a leather casing to it. It was the one of her scents that I liked most, probably not strong or intensive enough for her nose. Her favourites were magie noire, marbert and opium. I never wore it but only sniffed at the bottle sometimes.

Last Christmas I presented myself with this scent and this year I started wearing it. I smell gent's soap, carnation, smoke, something sweet (flowers? pineapple?) and leather.

I feared Must would be brash or intrusive, but it isn't. I feel very well-groomed or well-cared-for wearing this (the German word is "gepflegt") and also somewhat protected. As if someone older and stronger and well meaning was accompanying me. It's like having a nice man around all the time, or perhaps a dear and rather "cool" favourite aunt or fairy godmother. It's not what I usually wear. (Perhaps it should be what I usually wear.)
Very, very nice. I love this scent.

My first impressions of Must were that it was sweet, inoffensive and unremarkable. On me it was all fruity/floral - I didn't get any of the amber, sandalwood or tonka base notes that drew me to the fragrance in the first place. Perhaps it reacted strangely with my body chemistry but I also didn't get the longevity that other users have reported. I'll be passing on Must.

I've ordered the sample of Must, because I'm quite curious of all scents in this category. The opening is a bit strange-very bitter sandal wood, but it lasts for a few minutes and then comes quite long time of nice powdery amber. But the latest drydown is stinky vanilla, like a car tree shaped airfreshener called Wunderbaum vanilla. So except of that final I would love it.
The longevity is very good- I even didn't manage to wash it ;)

I got this and I'm still not sure what to think of it. Part of me loves it, while part of me is like "Nope!". The opening is kinda harsh on my skin; it smells reminiscent of lemon Pledge (sorry!), and stays that way for a long time. When it dries, it's awesome! I can't argue with the longevity or sillage, and I can see similarities with Obsession. The biggest difference is that I can handle Obsession's top notes easily, but this one...gee, I don't know. I will say that I've had a sinus infection and I'm currently on antibiotics, so that very well could be contributing factors. For now, I'm going to wait a few days and give it another go and see how it does then, because I really do like it. So for now, I'm waiting and I will do an update at a later time.

I've never thought I could love an amber and galbahnum mixture so much. It's woody, resinous, deep, dark seductive scent,It reminds to Miss Dior(a first one) with hints of dark chocolate.
Huh, even my hubby was interested too: What are you wearing, superb scent,great on your skin.
Longevity and sillage:great.

the holy trinity: Must, Krazy, Obsession....

Edit 6 months later : I have about 30 perfumes and I love them all.
This morning I finished my bottle of Must. I thought I may not need a new one right now.
But...it is now 4PM and it still smells so wonderful, so perfect, so feminine, I am so much in love with its spices, its warmth, its coziness... how could I be without wearing you my beloved Must? I'll get a new bottle tomorrow! :o)

To me, Must is THE most wonderful perfume and my all time favorite <3

Wow, this one is a living thing, with startling twists and turns, green and slightly bitter in the beginning, then, in a few minutes turns woody/sweet(reminds me a bit of dior addict) and after that, my favourite part, woody/incensy amber. I would have never guessed from the top notes it would be such a warm comforting and addictive scent. I love it!

I do love santal, but not as it is presented here. It smells like any wood, dry and a bit bitter. For me the value of santal is its incomparable light sweetness and warmth, lasting eternally. Must is a strong woody fragrance but lacking those santal qualities I prefer.

It is one of those overly serious perfumes, that I always hoped to grow up to, but I think time is running out:)

And I do not get any fruits in pure perfume.

Must has since it's inception been my non date evening going out scent. I've tried a parfum of the reformulation and have added it to my discard pile. The new formula does indeed smell a lot like Obsession. The old scent did not. If you don't want to pay the outrageous price for the original scent, the older versions of Krazy Krizia are a much closer smell to the old Must. They can be found on Ebay rather cheaply.

In my opinion, the Must parfum is the concentration to wear for nights out. The liquid has a rich almost red color and carries a deep spicy smokiness which is missing in the lesser concentrations. For daywear, I like the EDP. To my nose, the EDT smells altogether different, one that I never used.

Must is an elegantly sensual bright spicy warm Oriental without the dark sultry overtly vamp nature of Magie Noire. Must is sexy, but much more subtle. It's spiciness is not as heavy as Samsara's or the original CoCo's. It's fruitness is not as dark or as boozy as Opium's. The amber, wood and soft florals reveal just a trace of leather. This is an opulent but restrained and earthy scent.

If you can afford it, this is one fragrance to try in an older formula. Parfum minis sell for about $20 to $30. The sillage is healthy but not overpowering like others in this class. The longevity is fabulous often lasting over night.

Not sure about that

I smelled the parfum and the EdP today. The parfum was beautifully musty, strange and compelling. The EdP just smelled musty. Try first.

I just bought my self a bottle of Must because I red in the reviews that it is similar to my beloved Obsession:-); but I am very dissapointed:-(
I got the new transparent bottle. Not tjr one showing here on Frag.but the transparent bottle with gold in the middle.
Thirst spray is nice and fresh, then the amber and spices kik in and then, well then it just smells a bit sweet and ambery but it has no depht and hardly any spice like Obsession and certanly no lasting power. After 5 minutes it settles down to a sweet amber where you have to stik your nose real deep into your skin to smell something.
Is it just me or does anybody else feel the same?
I am dissapointet with the new reformulated version of Must de Cartier:-((
God bless you all


edit: I do have the pure perfum thoug and that is rich and deep. I recomend bying the pure perfum:-)

I have just applied some Must de Cartier perfume after it was sitting on a lovely vanity. The color of the bottle is so warm and invites me to wear it. It has been years since its creation. I can tell this fragrance is like no other. A very unique perfume for ladies.

The first spray is a déjà vu road. Almost medicinal, like cough syrup. I recognize all this, I remember all of those 70's and 80's perfumes and their hype for aldehydes. Just as I am about to scold myself for trying it..... It transforms. It becomes masculine and I am startled. I am reminded of my fathers aftershave. Spices, rich woods, seasoned citrus, leather. I am taken away by memories of my dad shaving his face in the morning. It puts a smile on my face and then it happens again. It changes.

Now I am smelling fluffy carnations, soft roses, jasmine, a never ending vetiver. This phase makes me feel like dancing in a vintage halter dress and sunglasses circa late 70's. I laugh again wondering if the perfumer himself was trying to capture that moment in history. The perfumists and their time capsules is what I thought!
Anyways, once again its changing.The musk is suddenly on the rise,reminding me of the sunset along with the golden amber and the vanilla notes. Its like the end of the day. The end of the perfume stages. The civet, the tonka bean, the sandalwood provide the earth for the landing of the dry down. The dry down is so beautiful! I am left sniffing my wrists in a deep state of thought. The word change comes to my mind.

Change is inevitable. Change is as essential as the seasons. Change is a Must.

Must is definitely a perfume for those who are not afraid of strength, change, vulnerability. It is a captivating, rich oriental recommended for confident women.

I was 2 young when i had this perfume and it was oh so heavy almost masculine smelling on me. I will have to give it another try in a decade or so... maybe i will feel differently about it then. =)

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I started using this perfume in 1982 when I was living in Cairo, Egypt.
It was given to me by a visiting Saudi princess, I thought it smelled so good on her so she just handed it to me.
Every one loved this fragrance on me at that time and I was told to NEVER change my fragrance.
I wore it for about 8 yrs and then took a break for quite a while. I bought it again about 5 yrs ago and it has changed! It was really not the same at all and gave me a head ache and had to return it. It's really too bad. And just to be clear the perfume is an entirely different fragrance from the EDT!!. I've tried both. I was told that they were designed to wear separately or together to create a new unique frangrance. I didn't care for the EDT.

This warm wintry scent is unique; some may say " Grandma"; I say not! Even the EDT is long-lasting. Lightly sprayed it is great even during the day. Try it if you like rich Oriental fragrance. Compliments will follow.

Rich and deep. Mature, beautiful, womanly..
Amber, galbanium, leather and vanilla blended in to a sweet potion. Similar to Obsession and Venice. Love to have it in my collection.

If you love Obsession, Opium and perfumes in that general genre then you will love this. Oh my is it just fantastic. Rich, warm, spicy and cozy. I can't get enough of smelling my wrist it is so dang good! Not a Spring or Summer perfume but a perfect cold weather perfume for sure! I can picture wearing this to a Christmas or New Years Eve party.

Today I found this on the Cartier shelf, and I had no idea it was for a woman. I pictured a warm, confident outdoorsy man wearing it. I first found it citrus y and Smokey as tobacco is, herbaceous, woody, pine like and musky, and the base reminded me of opium so at least I figured out is an oriental at least. Some spice, resin, amber, vanilla and the like. I found it ok, pleasant enough but somehow not satisfyingying enough. I want an oriental with more raw oomph

I can detect smell of old dust (library, bookshop, old house?). "Sweet dust". Similar to my beloved CK Obsession. Very 80's. Like it, but this "dust note" annoys me sometimes. Have 1.5 ml sample and won't buy a full size bottle.

I thought they just gave the packaging a new look--they changed the notes too? Why mess with a good thing?? :(

I haven't read many of the other comments. I think it's a nice fragrance, but rather masculine. The vetiver dominates.

This fragrance is growing on me in a wonderful way. It was recommended as a heavy galbanum fragrance, and it is--but not in a typical way. To me, it's more a deep vintage vetiver and vanilla scent. It is rich and almost opulant; I wore it in a sundress, but felt like I should have had on leather, fur and pearls. The leather scent was surprisingly distinct, in a way I've not smelled so strongly before. I also smell the orris root, which gives an earthy groundedness. As it dries down, the citrus notes come out, but this is never a gourmand fragrance. Even the vanilla--present throughout the transitions this scent goes through--is not a foody vanilla.

I have tried Shalimar, and prefer Must. It contains many similar notes, but is missing the incense and patchouli notes in Shalimar which I know from experience do not work well for me. Must is much preferable to the heavy smokiness I got from Shalimar, but shares a similar gravitas which I enjoy. To me, this is a perfume for cool days and formal evening events....but, I wore it to a warm spring Good Friday service and another very warm day, and it seemed a perfect fit there as well. It is cool...and yet warms nicely, which I attribute to the galbanum, my reason for being interested in this fragrance to begin with. Overall, a very pleasant and unique scent I'll look forward to wearing again.

EDT: Has a woodsy, watery quality that isn't all that impressive. I don't smell any of the more appealing notes that would round it out, like peach or spices. Really, it just smells kind of like watered-down sexy sawdust.

Parfum: Rich, deep oriental. Very full bodied (but not overpowering) with development of all the notes listed above. Musky, woodsy, spicy, and nearly edible. Smells just as golden as the liquid. The classier bottle with chrome accents suits it well.

the one i have is called must de cartier but in faint writing it says clair de jasmine..its a beautiful fragrance.. strong.. rich.. and confident.. a bit on the masculine side.. for its full of amber.. musk.. and dry woods.. in a rich background of sandalwood.. its a signature perfume.. its a classy.. elegant. full bodied gin like perfume.. it reminds me of the social scene of he 80 ies..the lavish parties ..the exuberance..
its a bit balmy .. powdery ..oriental.. mysterious.. deep.. dark.. and capable..it could easily be worn by a business woman ..it smells like old good perfumes where perfumes were either floral or oriental its a beautiful annotation of so may amazing notes.. with all its strength.. yet it s not that over whelming ..its approachable..sophisticated and elegant ..


edt 50 ml
perfume ratting 4.4 out 5
bottle ratting 4 out 5
my personal liking scale 4.4 out of 5

My first ever own purchased perfume - I was 15 and it happened in Italy on a schooltrip ;) I loved the scent - it was wonderful (and the memories of, too).

Smokey-woody-amber being ushered in by galbanum. Always such a strong scent in a fragrance, and it works so very well in this one. It gives it strength of character.

It does not open with a bomb, but smooth and soft, and it lasts forever on clothes (as all other Cartier fragrances). Very pleasant.

The dry down of this perfume is a sensual genius.

(Not for youngsters, you might look out of time)

(EDIT: I've been wearing this a lot lately and it hit me: it smells like a mosquito repellent we used back home in Romania. I still LOVE the scent, and I wear it, and it absorbs me into a cloud of love, but I have to add this in order to give it a complete review)

The quietest and in some ways most reserved of the balmy orientals of the 70s and 80s, Must de Cartier is unlikely ever to offend, it is an exercise in good manners.

Where others scream and seek to shock or pass themselves off as the real Far Eastern deal, Must seems happy with itself, comfortable with the notion that it is a allusion to the orient and not the actual thing.

After a surprisingly bright opening orange and bergamot flourish, a quality of the reformulation, the perfume settles down into familiar territory of amber, sandalwood and vanilla, with a distinctly resinous quality to the heart.

Though there is musk, those fearing powder should be calm as it is kept at bay with some fine handbag leather.

Likewise, floral notes are distinctly muted in a drydown that sees Must become a next to the skin scent.

Some will undoubtedly find the fragrance too sweet and muddled - and it is outside my normal range of comfort - but the drydown is so subtle that any over sugaring and note mixing mellow gently into a pleasant ambient perfume.

Must de Cartier is every inch a comfortable, if quirky, teashop scent. Useful to have riffled away in a mental directory of peaceful havens but not worth making a detour across town for.

NB

Must de Cartier Pour Homme is an altogether more edgy and interesting affair, and certainly an admirable addition to the wardrobes of men and women alike.

I desidered this fragrance so much and now it's mine. It's smokey, sweet and powdery. It remembers me more K di Krizia than Obsession wich is more strong and overwhelming. I absolutely adore it.

This must be the worst sin of a reformulation I have ever encountered! I used to wear this beautiful addictive creation that came in the little leather pouch back in the 80s. My mum bought a bottle a few years ago off eBay - some hideously acrid synthetic stink. I thought she must have purchased a fake item, but upon smelling it again in a department store realised it has indeed changed beyond comparison to what was such a musky, deep, classy perfume.

Very sad & misleading to allow it the same name.

That's a perfume.... Really hypnotic and classy. Gorgeous. Not for everyone

Well well well, have to agree it's Obsession!
On me, it goes like this, in quick succession:
OBSESSION - MOSSY GREEN - CINNAMON (maybe that is one of the other ingredients that I'm not familiar with but it translates nicely as cinnamon to my nose).
It then settles into a mixture of all three, finally drying down to a really cinnamony Obsession! Thankfully I don't detect ANY carnation in this.
I find the structure/progression of this scent very artful and interesting, I could wear this (received a mini vial today) and probably will in a 'comfort scent' capacity. :)

Delicious, sophisticated and approachable with a soft and pillowy undertone. Sillage moderate, lasts about 6 hours. A new cinnamon love!

Vintage Must on one arm, current Must on the other -

The vintage is heavier on the aldehydes, florals and vetiver, and I would have called it a chypre.

The current is heavier on the citrus, amber and vanilla - definite oriental.

They almost smell like two different perfumes but I can recognise the vintage in the current. It's more difficult the other way around - the current is much sweeter and "younger". The vintage is classier. The current is reminiscent of Obsession, the vintage is not.

I like both of them. I don't normally assign times of day to perfumes - I wear what I fancy smelling when I fancy smelling it - but I'd be inclined to wear the current Must as a daytime scent and save the vintage Must for evenings.

My mom still has an old botlle of Must.
It must have been reformulated because I bought mine last week, and it's a bit different.
The old one is stronger, woodier, I can detect more amber and vanilla in the dry down and has a better lasting power (it also is na EDT).
The opening is citrusy, my mom's vintage isn't - it starts velvety warm, woody.
After half an hour they smell quite similar.
It still is my lovely Must - warm, seductive, rich, leathery and very elegant oriental smell.
But it lacks that depth which an old Must had.
Still love it, perfect for fall and winter.
I would love to try the pure perfume of it.

For some time, about 8 years back, I tried, and then dismissed Must for being too easy, as I did with a couple of other big perfumes (L'Heure Bleue par example..., which is now a favourite) : I was still on a long term quest for 'something really special' to replace Opium.
Now, out of curiosity, I ordered Must, because I could not remember exactly how it smelled, the quest is over and I know my taste fluctuates:

It is sweet, but it is with leather and a fine citrus!
It is sweet, but it is heavy!

Orange fluid rules and so do the late seventies!
(1981, to be precise and the fluid really is orange, not at all like the picture)


Edit 18th of Sept. '12:

My signature scent this fall !!

This one is to me Cartier more interesting scent. I find it a bit similar to Dior addict. In both Tonka Bean has a cinnamonish scent, but Addict is sweeter while in Must the cinnamon like scent has been deprived of any sort of sweetness and is very inextricably mixed with galbanum. It is just a powdery woody, cinnamon and galbanum scent, quite opulent and intense. As time goes by, it does acquire a bit of sweetness, but very faint. Staying power is not bad. The scent does have a presence but to me it does not do much more. I do not find it pleasant or unpleasant, or find it pleasant only in relation to its having quite a strong particular character.

Must de Cartier is simply gorgeous and complex. It's seductive, dark, very mature and very sexy. I've owned it since 1996 when I bought in while on a Nordstrom fragrance expedition. I remember narrowing my choices down to Obsession, Shalimar, and Must. The Must won out after about an hour of settling on my arm. The amber, bergamot, and vanilla stand out. This is also a long-loasting fragrance. More than one squirt is overkill on me.

This has been the least age-appropriate purchase I've ever made, haha. I was well under 25 when I got it, so to say it merged awkwardly with my chemistry is an understatement. But I give myself props for trying.

The old good friend.
Very good qualitatively scent. Classic. Soft and nice :). One can wear him all around year, I very like him also in summer.

Heaven. Pure heaven. Smells like the drydown of Obsession. I love this so much. Mmm pure heaven. Vanilla, Amber, Spices, love it! There is also a heavy leather note. I don't really like leather (actually dislike it) but in this fragrance it's ok.

I crave for fragrances like this sometimes.
This and obsession, there is a heaven people. This is pure sex, a naughty girl perfume. I will always have bottle of obsession and must.

I do understand why many people have associated Must de Cartier with CK-Obsession. They are both warm oriental, heavy, ambery, lush, etc. But I can't wear Obsession, period!! On my skin the civet is bitter, animalic, screechy and harsh, it overshadow other notes. But Must de Cartier is unique!! It blooms beautifully and the notes reveals slowly...we literally could notice the transitions.

The galbanum, aldehydes, pineapple, bergamot, sequoia and lemon are strikingly obvious on the top. However I don't detect any peach. The heart is powdery; carnation, musk, vetiver, ylang, jasmine, rose and leather are noticeable. The base is balmy, earthy, woody and ambery. It's warm sweet with just a little bit of bitterness. Thanks God, the civet is tame. It adds the oomph effect into the overall blend.

The balmy and woody of Must de Cartier reminds me of another discontinued great creation, Emanuel Ungaro-Ungaro. If you have a chance compare this two gems side by side. It'll be hard to only love one :)

*My review is based on parfum concentration.

Allthough I love this smell, it wears very closely to the skin, which disapoints me a little. I have to sniff hard an concentrate on smelling something myself even right after application (2 sprays behind the ears). Doesn't hold in my hair either. I would really love it if people around me could smell this delicious fragrance. Cause it is really delicious. It depends from day to day, I sometimes smell amber, at other times I smell leather. Yesterday leather was on, the day before amber (depends on the weather outside I think: dry vs rainy)

Probably have to switch from EFT to EDP. :)

It is a piece of art indeed!. Full of contradictions. Sour at the bebinning, warm spicy after, leathery and sensual at the end. Must is a light oriental, that its character can be versatile, depending on how much you are sprayed. It is a fragrance you can wear all day with confidence, if you love it of coarse. The first impression (top notes), gives you a cheerful feeling together with a warm and cozy aura. (citrus, peach and wood. I feel amber to be there too, although is listed as a base note. Then, you experience the warmth of carnation and the fierce presence of vetiver, along with the other florals. Its heart is spicy, sensual but light and elegant as well. Florals melt with woody tones to a balanced and semi-sweet outcome, not gourmand, but sophisticated and classy. Fruits are faded, but they still give a hint, so as to balance the warmth. The end is erotic. Animalic and sexy yet, not vulgar. "Must" is for mature ladies after 30, dynamic and selfconfident ones, and not for romantic fragile souls. It is a very serious smell for those that have the appropriate style...

I own both a vintage EDT and a newer forumlation and (no surprise here) they are quite different. The vintage opens soft and velvety, and continues to deepen as it evolves. The reformulation opens sharp and citrusy and then slowly settles into the vintage notes that I love. Such a complex fragrance, but so smoothly blended that I cannot pick out many of the individual notes in every stage. The woodiness is balanced by the florals and depth is created with the addition of the civit, musk and amber in the base which creates a warm, subtle, and sensual fragrance. Both have great sillage and longevity although the vintage is more appealing to my nose. The newer version could be also work for men I think. I hope that I can continue to find the vintage online since this fragrance makes me swoon.

This smell has been haunting me for decades. You see, I wore Must in the eighties, and it must have connected on a deep cerebral level because in all the intervening years, I have been searching for that particular smell even though I had forgotten that smell belonged to Must. That beautiful, timeless, ethereal smell. Now I've found it, i feel I've met up with an old friend!

Since our fling in the eighties, I've spent a fair amount of time with Must's sister, basier du dragon, and I there is no denying they are related. Both have a classic structure with deep bases of amber and wood. Where dragon adds a little booze and spice, Must has a subtle animal edge from the civet which keeps it interesting and balances the fruit and flowers. Both have a wonderful vanilla accord that floats in and out of the composition throughout the day. To me, Must is gentler than Dragon, and for that reason, can be worn more easily in an office setting.
Although gorgeous for a woman, I would love to smell Must on a bloke.

Thank you Scorpiosheep for reacquainting me with my old friend :)

Woody amber vanilla with hint of aldehydes, flowers and fruits. Definitelly a complex perfume, timeless masterpiece. Warm and smoky, but not heavy at all. It smells like muffled powerful oriental elegance, it's fantastic ... it's gorgeous.

Excellent addition to my perfume collection!.
Thanks for your reviews guys!

I have been looking for this scent, since the late 80.
I loved it back then, and can not wait to have it again.

I've ordered it today.I'm so happy that I found it online (hope is not 'fake' verison!) MUST...must have it!? Looking at all your reviews here.. wow.. it must be fantastique. I can't wait to smell it. I'll tell you later what I think!

I love this one!!!I have a big bottle,given to me as a present in the late eighties, the original fragrance, beautiful bottle in a pretty red box. Sadly some one used my bottle and dropped it on the floor,i've lost about half of this golden wonderful rich liquid in the carpet,and now i haven't got the metal things anymore which belong in the top,I love this scent so much that i almost don't want to use it,I sniff the box,My taste for fragrances changed a lot during 20 years,most of the perfumes I liked back then,I don't like these days ,but I loved Must then very much and i still adore this warm classy expensive sensual smelling mmmmm I think i'll take a little snif a bit later......

Autumn will be starting soon in my country & I absolutely cannot wait to wear this Amazing fragrance. Just browsing down below at all the wonderful reviews makes me wonder what more can be said about such a Masterpiece. Cartier what an excellent job! The dry down is just out of this world. It's unique to my nose. It is definitely a head turner as well as a crowd pleaser. Can't go wrong with this in your wardrobe. A fantastic soft woodsy & earthy oriental. Superb!

I am one of the lucky ones... I wore this when it first came out. My perfume of seduction when it was a major thing on my mind and it worked. I have had several people nuzzle my neck and moan, "oh my God you smell awesome" need I say more. So they messed with it when they reformulated it... oh dear, when will we stop messing with perfection. Look for the old stuff and enjoy the swarms of men at your neck!

It's very beautiful perfume...I love it...I can found some notes of talcum..powdery very good...I have edt but I would like to buy edp...

Final UPDATE: I sprayed this again and noticed very green notes this time that I did not notice before at all. (Strange how sometimes perfumes change with the subtle fluctuations of one's body chemistry.) This time, I am strongly reminded of Estee Lauder's Private Collection. The difference is, EL stays green throughout, whereas Must changes and evolves to reflect differenct stages as described in my earlier review.