Perfumer, Olivier Polge says, "The comet is a strong symbol for Chanel, and I’m thinking in particular of the Comète necklace from the 1932 High Jewellery Collection"
Strong civet out the door! The opening is a blast of civet and some citrus. The civet remains highly noticeable through the mid notes of rose and florals. The drydown is a semi-sweet powder with a whiff of oakmoss. I think Civet Cat Chypre does what its name implies: a big dose of natural civet in a loosely chypre structure. If you want to smell real civet, this is the way to go. Most natural perfumers who use civet, musk, ambergris, etc. do so sparingly. It appears here if the perfumer has used a heavy hand on the civet tincture -- and for the better. The base is a little powdery for me, but that is a minor complaint compared to what your getting here.
If you are still in to sexy honeyed vintage 70/80's giants a la Paloma Picasso, vintage Coco Chanel, Estee Lauder Cinnabar, Paco Rabanne La Nuit or Acampora Sballo you can't miss this earthy "stuffy-retró" forgotten masterpiece. Missoni Donna original by Missoni is an holy historical freshly aromatic, massively floral and earthy woody vintage grand-chypré appointed for the italian famous house in the 1981 by the great perfumer Maurice Roucel. This is an intimidating and powerfully hesperidic/laundry/earthy/leafy/floral fragrance with that typical intricated spicy angular articulation you can admire in several creations of the same clan as vintage Guerlain...
Mont Blanc Explorer EDT It has taken me years to check this one out, and after sever sample wearings, I picked up a bottle. For me, this one behaves in the same utilitarian fashion as Prada Luna Rossa Carbon. You could wear it in nearly any setting and in any climate. I like that! A bit of freshness, some lavender, and some woods. Overall, Explorer is faithful to the note pyramid with good longevity at around 6 hours. 3 / 5 stars
Opens with a somewhat smoky incense and spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom and black pepper along with (ugh) a sippa' coffee. Actually the coffee note isn't super pronounced and isn't as bad as I feared. A pretty darned nice sandalwood enters soon after, creamy and a tiny bit tangy. I also noticed vanilla which here again isn't too pronounced or terrible. Just lending a creaminess to the sandalwood. Vetiver and patchouli add a green component and support well the wood. In the base a real, honest to goodness ambergris note adds a salty, slightly animalic facet and along with castoreum further supports the sandalwood. It must be said that this...
As I sit here, with my vintage 2001 Boss Bottled EDT on one hand, and my 2023 EDP on the other, I realize that I love them both, and that I love what Honorine Blanc has done here, with the EDP. I realize that Annick Menardo created a truly great fragrance, with extraordinary balance, in the EDT. I had always hoped for a stronger version, and the EDP answers that hope. At the same time, I understand what the critics are saying. There is a difference here, which is especially apparent when sniffing the EDP on skin. The stronger and spicier format obscures the very key apple note, which is now more apparent in the sillage, than on skin. Fortunately,...
I have well over 50 different samples from Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements and have been going through them all for the better part of two years, giving each their proper due. After I first try a sample on skin, it goes into one of three bins: The first: “Oooh, I like this. Can’t wait to try again.” The second: “Eh, it’s fine. I’ll try it again eventually.” The third: “Nah, this isn’t for me. Maybe I’ll open the vial some day and see if my mind had changed.” Immortal Peach falls somewhere between the last two categories. I tried it well over a year ago and am revisiting it now that PAA has released it again for the spring. Is...
Nothing fresh, sweet or modern in the opening and then has an Oud Wood feel drydown with dry woody notes. Smells like weathered, slightly mossy wood but not in a realistic way. Performance is pretty bad, worse than EdC fragrances that I've tried. Doesn't project or last.
Divine Folie seems to be the "premier œillet" from Jean Patou, a prickly and stimulating carnation that rivals that of Caron's Bellodgia, but leaning more toward the ylang ylang side of the accord, just a bit more sultry and humid. This is further punctuated by the sunny disposition of orange blossom. Be that as it may, what becomes evident over time is a delightfully powdered veneer from orris and what feels like some heliotropin somewhat recalls L'Heure Bleue or Vol de Nuit. What can I say? I love this. The color that comes to mind is that of a deep garnet red gem. It tells of a time when elegance was a sacrament, even in the most foreboding of...
I was always a fan of Lime Basil Mandarin, though it was kind of weak and aside from wearing it casually around the house, didn't have much need as it didn't last too long. So over time I've written the house off as fickle and dismissive. In recent times I've seen the cologne intense setting out, smelled a few that were nice, but didn't pay much attention. Fast forward to my trip, I was walking out of Nordstroms and the SA at the Jo Malone counter asked if I wanted to smell anything, so I kept an open mind. Right away she showed me Cypress and Grapevine. I was immediately captivated by the woody and musky character. It smelled so good on the card. She...
What modern fragrance would be closest to Coty Chypre? I have a minute sample of what I believe to be the 1986 relaunch. It reminds me of Mitsouko with more peach peach in the opening and more rose in the heart. Feminine, unisex, and masculine fragrances are ok.
Hi Guys, I'm working on a Pine theme perfume, but I'm having a problem and it is my perfume gets locked for a few minutes (very little smell comes out of the perfume !! and that little smell is not a good smell at all) I found out some naturals ciuld be the culprit ! so I deleted some of them that suspected more such as juniper eo and black currant absolute as they seemed not clear enough. Then I started my trial from scratch and decided not to add any natural and to create piny effect I added terpinol and beta pinene but they were not as fresh and beautiful as naturals like cypress and fir abs. Then I decided to add them again so I added fir, cypress and...
Hi. I' m looking for suggestion about a good White Musk fragrance plus Amber . Thanks
https://basenotes.com/fragrances/paddock-by-hermes.26269570 Apparently only available in France. Anyone had a chance to sniff it yet? Persolaise reviewed it and said it was Christine Nagel at her "funkiest, naughtiest, and downright dirtiest." Sounds fun! review starts at 6:11 -- [MEDIA=youtube]DCrWbLiRKgI[/MEDIA]
Hey there super new to his and have a few questions on getting started with naturals Im about to buy 10-15 EO from perfumers apprentice to start learning some stuff alongside the Mandy aftel book and had a few questions. Sorry for the stream of consciousness and length. For storing natural essential oils would room temp around 70-72 be ok if I bought in small volumes 15ml and below and diluted to 10% for blending and stored the original bottles away in the dark somewhere and did the same with the dilutions when not in use? Id probably replace or go through most stuff within a year at the very most I'll figure while learning or is a fridge totally needed...
Hi Friends - I don’t have any indole materials yet and will need to acquire at least one. Can anybody weigh in on the different options? Indole Pure vs Indocolore vs Indolrome. Which one do you think is is best for building muguet/jasmine florals? PA sells Natural Indole diluted in ethanol, though that’s not a great option for me right now as shipping would run 100+ USD. Thanks 🙏
I wouldn't say this is a category that I seek out urgently, but over time I have experienced this genre, owned a few, and kept an open mind if I ever found the one. I'll discuss my thoughts and I know some of you have extensive experience so share your thoughts as well. My first experience oud came from Montale Black Aoud, to which I called the flagship in France and asked for an extra 10% oil. Wow this was nuclear. A couple sprays and I filled an entire lecture hall. Not even kidding. This was Circa 2008, when rose and oud gained popularity and was a new concept, at least to me. I had tried others but found this to be the smoothest of the day. Well, that...
What fragrances do you consider avant-garde? Dior Fahrenheit, Etat Libre d'Orange and a lot of Comme des Garçons come to mind. What else? 481252 Man Ray (left) Jean Paul Gaultier (right) 481248 481237 Trèfle Incarnat in Last Year at Marienbad (1961)
at home with a heaving cold and the only perfume that interest me today are [*]Aventus Cologne [*]Loewe Esencia Elixir Variations on the one theme… Curious does the forum have a favourite. Hitting the south of France next week and choosing which one to bring (The Loewe is one of my longest lasting scents with Haltane and Bois Imperial.) Thanks
SOTN: A TUESDAY NIGHT WET SHAVE FOLLOWED BY SAUVAGE AFTER SHAVE BALM AND EDT
Sotm 05/29/24
